Well, I'm back from Kingdom A&S, which is THE big A&S competition event in Ansteorra every year.
My project for Kingdom A&S (KAS) was one you've seen bits and pieces of here on the blog in the past few months - I've been working on it since January, I started as soon as Candlemas was over.
I made a complete Norse woman's outfit in three layers: a linen serk, a wool overdress, and a wool smokkr. All of it is hand-sewn, and I did the tablet weaving and the braiding on the smokkr as well.
The serk is all linen, sewn with linen thread. It's a light gray in color, similar to what an unbleached linen would look like, but not as warm in color (more gray, less beige/tan). The thread is white, because that's what I had on hand. Nothing fancy here, just a plain "T-tunic" style pattern, some flat-felled seams, no trim or anything like that. The sleeves are a bit longer than they need to be - I did that so I could bunch them up around my wrists. So they hang down pretty far in the picture above. The stitching on the serk isn't as nice as on the other two pieces, and I got dinged for that by the judges, but it's not a humongous deal or anything.
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armpit gussets. I hate them so much. |
The green wool dress (previewed here) that goes over the serk is done on the same basic T-tunic pattern (similar to tunics/dresses found at Birka and Hedeby). It's sewn in a beige colored silk thread which blends into the green fabric pretty well. The trim around the neckline and sleeve cuffs is blue silk fabric, hand-stitched in place on top of the edge.
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the green wool dress, with blue silk trim and a blue tablet woven belt |
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armpit gussets in the green dress |
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blue silk trim on green dress |
The blue wool smokkr is one that I showed at Bjornsborg this past Spring, when the project was about half-finished. It's a full-length dress, with fabric straps/loops, tablet-woven trim, and a "Hedeby braid" trim on the vertical seams, very similar to the red linen dress I made in 2024.
The fabric is a broken diamond twill wool in a medium blue color; the pattern is the same three-panel/three-gore pattern I always use for these things, which is based off of Carolyn Priest-Dorman's pattern which is widely used in the SCA LINK.
The trimming across the top edge of the dress is in two parts: a green silk fabric band folded over the top edge, and below it a tablet woven band in silk, in green, blue, and white. This decision was inspired by finds at Birka as noted by Inga Hagg. The pattern for the band is Oseberg 12L1 (the Oseberg "narrow band" found on the loom in the Oseberg ship burial), which I got from Elewys von Finchingfield's blog and YouTube channel LINK.
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blue smokkr |
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setting in the side gores |
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tablet weaving and Hedeby braid on the smokkr |
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eleven examples of top trim on apron dresses, illustration by Inga Hagg |
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weaving the Hedeby braid |
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the Hedeby braid on an extant fragment found at Birka (illustration by Inga Hagg) |
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my prize coin from the competition |