SCA: New Viking Stuff! (ATR Article)

 In 2016, a burial site in Bryndum, Denmark began excavation and study, which among other things contained the grave (G12) of a woman with several layers of textiles buried with her.  The December 2025 issue of the Archeological Textile Review journal contains an article ("The Bryndum Burial Ground in Denmark: News on Viking Age Women's Clothing") which details these textiles.  

The outfit the woman was wearing is unique in several ways.  Firstly, she was covered by a "duvet" of dark gray (undyed) wool stuffed with straw and possibly down - which is not unique, but beneath this layer, she was dressed in: 

• a pleated, undyed linen serk (pleated serks are so cool and I've always wanted to make one) 
• a smokkr/apron dress made of wool which was dyed a deep, dark blue with purple stripes (stripes!)
• a dark gray jacket- or coat-like garment made of wool and lined with linen, which shows cutting and seaming which indicates that the garment may have been cut and tailored to the body

All of that is super cool, but the thing that blew my mind was this:  the smokkr had straps. Most of the smokkr fragments we've found have been in the form of loops and little sections of the top of the garment which were preserved by the metal in the brooches the loops were attached to.  But THIS dress not only HAS straps - the straps are TABLET WOVEN BANDS.  This is the first instance that's been discovered of tablet weaving being used in this way in the Viking age, according to the journal article.  

Tablet woven straps! Stripes! Pleated serk!  I'm so excited about this - and I think now I need to make a new outfit for myself after this grave find.  I want to know more about how this coat/jacket thing was constructed, too.  

Anyway, I just thought this was cool and wanted to share it with you.  

For the time being, I'm hard at work on my current A&S project, and I need to finish that before I get into a new outfit based on this find.  More news on that as I progress (I know, I know, I haven't talked about it at all yet, but it's coming!) 

 

SCA: Just Loom Stuff

 I read somewhere that "she who dies with the most looms wins," LOL.  I don't know if I'll ever have the MOST, but now I have FOUR and I'm working on building two more:  

Homemade Inkle loom

This was my first inkle loom, which I built out of 1x3" pine with oak dowels, back in 2019.  It's a bit unwieldy to use because it's so big (3’ long!), and the sliding tension bar with the butterfly nut lock is not all that great - it hurts my fingers to use, and I can never get the tension exactly where I want it.  It makes about 4y of trim when fully warped. This loom worked for me for a few years, but I like my new inkle loom better: 

Hand-me-down Inkle loom

This inkle loom I got from a friend who was moving out of the country, earlier this year.  It’s much smaller, but when fully warped it makes about 4y of band. The tensioning bar on it is sooo much easier to use than my big inkle loom, and it's much more reliable as far as getting the warp to the right tension.  The only problem with it is that some of the pegs are so close together that I can't get my fingers around them to untwist the warp threads, and I don't know what to do about that.  I tried removing one of them with a small saw...but none of my saws are small enough to fit into the space between the pegs, either! Argh.  There's also a spot on the frame where someone repaired [something?] with HUGE lag bolts and nuts, and the bolts stick out and poke me in the leg while I'm trying to weave with this thing in my lap.  

Oseberg loom, A&S April 2024

This is the miniature version of the Oseberg upright loom that I built in YEAR.  The warp is tied to the frame uprights with a leather thong, and it's incredibly easy to move the warp around and untwist the threads - you just remove the thong, untwist, and tie it back up again.  The whole thing breaks down into three pieces, so it's easy to transport and travel with.  There are a couple of problems with this one: firstly, this loom is so lightweight that I have to clamp it to a table in order to use it, and the only table I have that I can use is my dining room table. That's the second problem - at my dining room table I have to stand next to the loom and weave from the side next to the loom, which hurts my shoulder and my hip.  I think a full-sized version of this might take care of both of these issues.  

Beka rigid heddle loom

A friend recently gave me this Beka 4” rigid heddle loom, and I spent some time this past weekend figuring out how to warp it up and weave on it. This is NOT a loom for tablet weaving - it’s meant to be used with a rigid heddle, not cards. I thought I’d try it out for card weaving, but I very quickly realized that dealing with twist in the warp would be such a huge pain in the ass (removing the warp from the backboard, untwisting, putting the board back on) that it’s basically just no good for card weaving. Lesson learned! I do plan to get a rigid heddle and try this thing the way it’s meant to be used at some point in the future. 

Pieces for full-sized upright loom

This is the first loom I'm in the process of building.  It's an upright loom like the Oseberg, but more in the early Medieval style which you see in paintings. The white upright posts are stair banisters (newel posts? I'm not sure of the terminology), and the feet and stretcher bar(s) are made out of 1x2" sticks of maple.  I started working on this in my teacher’s workshop at War of the Rams, and brought it home with me to finish building.  When finished it will warp and weave the same way as my mini Oseberg loom, and I'm hoping it'll be a bit easier to sit at since it's bigger.  

I'm also hoping to build myself a new inkle loom this spring to replace my existing two inkle looms, both of which have problems, but I'm nowhere near there yet.  I have lots of sewing and weaving to get done, and stuff around the house, before I'll have time to build a new loom.  

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I'm planning to bring my tablet weaving and some of my looms to Laurel's Prize Tourney*  this year as a "body of work" type display.  I have TONS of weaving I want to get done before then, and not enough time to do everything I want, so we'll see how it ends up looking.  

*Laurel's Prize Tourney is NOT a tournament or a competition, and there's no "prize".  Apparently it used to  be a competition many years ago and the name was just never changed, or something.  What it IS, though, is basically a show-and-tell event where you just bring whatever you're working on - a project, or a body of work, or something you're in the middle of that you might want help with or advice about - and you get to speak with various Laurels who stop by to visit with you and see your stuff, and you get to geek out with other artists all day and see everyone's amazing work, and it's a totally AWESOME event.  It can be very stressful - after all, LPT is all about putting yourself out there where everyone can see you, and it can be intimidating trying to make a good impression on people - but it's also VERY fun.  

 

SCA: 2025 Recap Post

 Here's a quick look back at all the large projects I've made for the SCA in 2025 (not counting small stuff like bags, miscellaneous weaving, things like that):  

FEBRUARY: 

1.  A red linen Viking outfit for the A&S Competition at Bryn Gwlad's Candlemas event (I won), which I also took to show off at Laurel's Prize Tourney (it's not a tourney/competition and there is no prize, long story): 

the A&S display

2.  A blue linen tunic for my male Viking kit, with tablet woven trim: 

MARCH 

While I spent most of the spring working on my project for Kingdom A&S, I did manage to complete part of it, which I entered at Bjornsborg's A&S competition in March: 

JUNE

Still working on the project for Kingdom A&S!  With the leftover fabric from that project, I made a rectangular cloak to wear with my male kit: 

JULY

1.  The Kingdom A&S project is finally finished!  

2. I also whipped up a quick Viking outfit in Sprezzatura household colors, which has become one of my favorite things to wear (even though the sleeves are way too long, oops): 

 

3.  I also made myself a Skjoldehamn hood out of some green wool that was leftover from the Kingdom A&S project. It's not finished - it's sewn together, but not decorated or anything like that. Not yet, anyway.  

NOVEMBER

Last month I made a klappenrock coat for my friend Ivar, out of some wool that someone gave to him: 

And that's it for this year!  I did lots of other small things - bags, bits of weaving, little hats, that kind of thing.  But these are all the major SCA-related pieces I made during the year. I feel like this is somehow...not enough? Is that a thing?  I don't know.  

I can't wait to see what 2026 holds! I'm already started on a couple of A&S pieces for the spring - show you soon as I have some measurable progress to report.  

SCA: A Klappenrock for Ivar Hersir

My good friend Ivar was given a piece of gorgeous wool several years ago that he’d always wanted to have made into a coat, so I volunteered my services. He and I sat down at the last event and took some measurements and discussed styles, and he basically gave me free rein to “do what I do,” hehe. 

It’s lovely fabric, a medium-weight wool of about 4y.  It looks dark gray from a distance, but up close it’s made up of black, light gray, and dark blue threads in a herringbone twill striped pattern, with a thin stripe of brown every few inches. 

I made it into a klappenrock - the tunic-length coat with an angled front that wraps over in the front, for male Vikings. I don't know a whole lot about the archeology behind this style; it’s described by Inga Hagg from her studies on the finds at Hedeby (10-11th century).  I've seen the klappenrock in the SCA, although not often, and usually made out of linen. 

The pattern I drew up was pretty simple - it basically looks like the drawing above. Nothing fancy, no gores or gussets, just angled front and back pieces. I didn't have an Ivar available for fittings, as he lives two hours away from me, but I had him bring me the fabric as well as a tunic of his that he liked and which fit him well, and used that as a jumping-off point for sizing and shaping the coat.  I did take measurements of him as well, when he delivered the fabric to me at the Bjornsborg fall event a couple of weeks ago.  

Sewing this coat was also very simple.  I did the seams on the machine to save myself some time, and then hand-finished all the seam allowances for a period look.  I couched a length of brown wool yarn along the seam allowances edges with a herringbone stitch to help protect them from fraying: 

I used a herringbone stitch in black thread for all the seam allowances and for all the hemming on the open edges. 

Very often you see these coats with a contrast guarding around the edges, and I didn't do that (I had no extra fabric with which to make one), but I did finish the front edges and sleeve cuffs with a band of tablet-woven trim which I made.  

The pattern for the woven trim is  Ladoga 2b, which is a Rus design from Staraya Ladoga barrow in Russia; in blue and white with a red and black border.  I made about 3.3 yards to go around the neckline and front opening, and another yard or so for the sleeve cuffs. 

And that's it.  This was a great "quick" project (the coat itself took about five hours to make, and the woven trim took me about a week or so weaving in my spare time).   His excellency absolutely loves it.  Success! 

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It's going to be a while before I post again.  We just finished up Bordermarch's event War of the Rams, and so events are over until February, for me - but I have a LOT to do over the winter, both for the SCA and with projects around the house. 

I'm working on a new outfit for A&S in the spring, a new hood, and a LOT of tablet weaving - including building two new looms.  I'll try to post about the stuff I'm making as I go along.  

SCA: Events: Bjornsborg Fall Faire

I haven't had a lot of luck with events this fall at all.  First of all, it was still in the 90s here until like a week ago, so I really didn't want to be outside all that much.  One of the events I was going to go to in September was canceled at the last minute; another one at the beginning of October I managed to go to, but I couldn't camp, and it was so hot and so much walking around a very BIG and extremely dusty event site, and between the heat and my allergies I didn't stay long.  

Last weekend, however, was the Barony of Bjornsborg's Fall Faire, which I wouldn't have missed for the world.  The weather has finally cooled off, and Bjornsborg really knows how to put on an awesome event.  There were classes, competitions (no A&S, sadly), games, a couple of great bardic circles, a tavern with food and drink for lunch, and a feast on Saturday evening.  Court that night was long, but hilarious; and it rained like crazy and even hailed a bit during the first half of court, which made it kind of hard to hear what was going on at the front, but it was still a great court. 

                                 Me and Hersir Ivar 🫶

I also got to try out my new campsite this event, which was kind of exciting for me.  I got a new tent which is bigger than my old one, and sets up "instantly" (seriously, it takes me like 5 minutes to put it up all by myself, and I LOVE that!) I also got a new air bed which is wider than the twin sized one I was using before (that I kept falling out of!), and a new rocking camp chair which is SUPER comfortable.  

                        Big tent! 

This tent is big enough that I can bring my rolling garment rack for War of the Rams next month, too.  It's a five-day event, and it's going to be COLD and there are tons of parties and other activities which may or may not require costume changes - and it's SO nice at WotR to be able to just hang up all my clothes instead of rooting through a plastic tote bin for them like I do at short events, especially for when I need to duck into my tent quickly in the evenings to grab a coat or other outerwear.  

 

For my next trick, I'm going to be making a Norse klappenrock, (a short coat with a wrap-over front) for Master Ivar, complete with tablet-woven trim.  He brought the fabric to me at the event, and we sat down and took some measurements and talked about styles and colors; and I'm going to be working on this between now and WotR.  I'll show you when I'm done.  

SCA: Just Weaving Some Stuff

I’ve just recently obtained my very own copy of Applesies & Fox Noses, a book of historical Finnish tablet weaving patterns by Maikki Karisto and Mervi Pasanen. I’m super excited about it - it’s been out of print for EVER and they finally released a new printing. Yay! 

So far I’ve only done the first pattern, a band from the Carelian Iron Age from the Kaukola Kekomäki graveyard that the authors are calling “Colorful small Applesies.”  The first time through I did it in red, yellow, and blue like the pattern: 

I had an enormous amount of trouble with the tension on this one for some unknown reason, but it came out pretty well anyway.  

The second version I did was in greens, black, and white:

I LOVE the color scheme on this one.  

I recently re-fitted my ancient black linen smokkr - it was in good shape, but it was too tight across the chest, so I took a strip off the lower hem and used it to make a thin panel that I inserted into one of the seams to widen the whole dress. It fits great now, and now it also has a lovely green band on it: 

I can’t wait to wear this at my next event - which will be Bjornsborg’s fall baronial event on Halloween weekend  that weekend is also my fiftieth birthday, hooray! This will be fun. 

SCA: Kingdom A&S Event

 

Well, I'm back from Kingdom A&S, which is THE big A&S competition event in Ansteorra every year.   

My project for Kingdom A&S (KAS) was one you've seen bits and pieces of here on the blog in the past few months - I've been working on it since January, I started as soon as Candlemas was over.  

I made a complete Norse woman's outfit in three layers: a linen serk, a wool overdress, and a wool smokkr.  All of it is hand-sewn, and I did the tablet weaving and the braiding on the smokkr as well. 

The serk is all linen, sewn with linen thread.  It's a light gray in color, similar to what an unbleached linen would look like, but not as warm in color (more gray, less beige/tan).  The thread is white, because that's what I had on hand.  Nothing fancy here, just a plain "T-tunic" style pattern, some flat-felled seams, no trim or anything like that. The sleeves are a bit longer than they need to be - I did that so I could bunch them up around my wrists.  So they hang down pretty far in the picture above.  The stitching on the serk isn't as nice as on the other two pieces, and I got dinged for that by the judges, but it's not a humongous deal or anything.  

armpit gussets.  I hate them so much. 

The green wool dress (previewed here) that goes over the serk is done on the same basic T-tunic pattern (similar to tunics/dresses found at Birka and Hedeby).  It's sewn in a beige colored silk thread which blends into the green fabric pretty well.  The trim around the neckline and sleeve cuffs is blue silk fabric, hand-stitched in place on top of the edge.  

the green wool dress, with blue silk trim and
a blue tablet woven belt

armpit gussets in the green dress

blue silk trim on green dress

The blue wool smokkr is one that I showed at Bjornsborg this past Spring, when the project was about half-finished.  It's a full-length dress, with fabric straps/loops, tablet-woven trim, and a "Hedeby braid" trim on the vertical seams, very similar to the red linen dress I made in 2024.  

The fabric is a broken diamond twill wool in a medium blue color; the pattern is the same three-panel/three-gore pattern I always use for these things, which is based off of Carolyn Priest-Dorman's pattern which is widely used in the SCA LINK.    

The trimming across the top edge of the dress is in two parts: a green silk fabric band folded over the top edge, and below it a tablet woven band in silk, in green, blue, and white. This decision was inspired by finds at Birka as noted by Inga Hagg.  The pattern for the band is Oseberg 12L1 (the Oseberg "narrow band" found on the loom in the Oseberg ship burial), which I got from Elewys von Finchingfield's blog and YouTube channel LINK.  

blue smokkr

setting in the side gores

tablet weaving and Hedeby braid on the smokkr

eleven examples of top trim on apron dresses, 
illustration by Inga Hagg

weaving the Hedeby braid

the Hedeby braid on an extant fragment found
at Birka (illustration by Inga Hagg)

Overall, the day was frustrating as heck (because of all the stress of just waiting and waiting and waiting), but it ended well.  I'm very happy with the scores I got, and the judges' commentary.  I was in the top 10 high scorers, and so I got a commemorative coin/badge as a prize, which was pretty cool.  I only spoke to one of my judges, but she was very cool and had a lot of good things to say, and good ideas for going forward with this project IF I decide to take it to Gulf Wars to compete there - IF I get chosen to go, which I probably won't.  

A few friends and I traveled to KAS together (five hour drive!) and stayed in an Air BNB together for the weekend, which was fun.  We had a great time together, and KAS was a good experience, and I'm happy with the weekend overall.  

Good lord, what's next?  I have no idea.  I think I need to spend some time recovering from the emotional strain, LOL.  No, I totally have things planned.  More soon!  

my prize coin from the competition

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SCA: Weaving Stuff - Birka 6

I've been doing a bit of tablet-weaving lately, mostly for practice, and to fill up my time since I don't have any big projects to work on at the moment. 

Birka 6, wool

I'm trying out a new wool yarn for weaving - Hobbii's "easy care merino", which is absolutely lovely to weave with:  it's smooth and even, and doesn't stick to itself the way some wool yarns do.  The pattern above is Birka 6, which I love to do, even though it's kind of slow.  I'll get faster at it the more I do it, though.  

I've also begun teaching tablet weaving, a little bit.  I spent a few hours last weekend semi-teaching weaving to a couple of friends of mine (not total newbies, but wanted some guidance) at the local library's "crafternoon", and it went really well.  I'm not really cut out for teaching in front of a class, but I really enjoy these little one-on-one sessions.  I have a couple more planned for the coming month, too.  

I've also been replacing the trim on an old smokkr.  I donated a bunch of my old Viking clothing to the local Gold Key a few weeks ago, and only kept  my five favorite pieces.  This is one of them, a favorite because of the color of the fabric ("blue bonnet" from Fabric-Store.com): 

The problem was, the trim on it was manufactured jacquard trim in a semi-Persian design that I purchased online a million years ago.  It was pretty, and I loved the blue and gold, but it wasn't accurate for the dress at all.  I took it off and replaced it with another blue-and-gold Birka 6, this time in cotton (cotton, because I wanted to be able to throw this thing in the washing machine).  

Somehow I managed to warp this one up backwards, and the pattern came out on the underside of the weave instead of the top, and the design is blue-on-gold instead of gold-on-blue. After much conversation with a weaving buddy, and a fantastic explanation by a kind soul on Reddit, it was determined that I wove too many picks at the beginning of the band which threw off my pick count which threw off the gold/blue rows by 2, and reversed the colors. Does that make sense? It barely makes sense to me, but I mostly get it. I need to spend some time playing with turning sequences to get a better feel for how this all works - I can follow a pattern, but I don’t know as much of the theory as I would like to. 

  

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Anyway, just a couple of little things to work on to fill my time, nothing big going on. "Event season" is just around the corner, starting with Kingdom A&S in September, about which I'm very excited and very nervous.  In the meantime I'll be weaving some more, doing more teaching, and playing around with Spring projects, which I'll show you as I go along.