SCA: Small Side Quests

While I waited for fabric to come in the mail the last couple of weeks, I made a few small things:  

1.  Wool Skjoldehamn hood

I had quite a bit of that green wool left over from my tunic dress. The problem is, the color isn’t one I can wear - that bright, yellow-y, acid-green makes me look like I’m suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning, lol.  So I decided to try to overdye the fabric to a shade of green I can actually wear. 

This came out really well. It’s more of a Kermit-the-Frog green now, which is much nicer to my skin tone.  The fabric didn’t shrink or felt in the wash at all, either, thank goodness. 

And so here’s a Viking hood.  I hand-sewed the entire thing, because I really enjoy hand-sewing, and I like the look of it on this fabric in particular. I won’t put any woven trim on this hood, though I may make some whipcord ties for the hood part, like the original piece has. 

2. Matching (ish) Hedeby bag

I dyed another piece of the leftover fabric to make a new Hedeby bag out of.  For both pieces of wool, I used Rit dye’s “Pearl Gray” and “Teal” - for this bag, there’s a bit more of each, and a lot more teal than gray. It’s a little darker and a little cooler-toned than the hood. 

As always, I made the handles on my scroll saw out of red oak scraps that I have a million of. Instead of a tablet woven strap, this time I crocheted a quick cord. I may replace it with a woven strap eventually, but for now yarn will have to do. 

3. Hedeby "Coin Purse" 

In the process of making the bag above, I ended up making my first bag way too small for the handles I had already created, which were sized to fit the size bag I normally make (about 9" x 11").  I ended up cutting out a second bag which became the one pictured above; but in the meantime I decided to do something silly with the smaller bag.  I cut it down even smaller and sewed it up, then made a pair of wee handles for it, and made this tiny Hedeby bag just for fun: 

The finished mini-bag is about 4” across, including the handles.  It's not terribly useful for most things, it doesn’t even have a strap, it's mostly just for fun. I'm just hoping it will just make people laugh when they see it.  

4.  Ottoman pillbox hat

Because I was extremely bored the other night and got sucked into a 16th century Ottoman/Turkish rabbit hole online, I ended up making this little hat: 

I do absolutely plan to make an outfit to go with it someday if we ever have an Ottoman-themed event again.  For right now, I have this little hat as a jumping-off point. The fabric is from a small piece of blue and gold brocade I received in a prize basket in February; it’s lined with blue linen; and the trim around the bottom is a bit of scrap silk from a sari. 

Random stuff!  More soon. 

SCA: Do Not Open Until September

 Something else that happened at KAS over the weekend: I gave a good friend of mine a birthday present: 

This is a Skjoldehamn style hood, made of linen, machine-sewn, with a thin tablet-woven band around the hood opening and bottom edge. 

My friend Ivar saw my blue and brown hood last fall and expressed a wish to have a similar one, so I made this blue and red one for him in June, and I’ve been dying to tell you about it ever since - but it was a surprise, so I couldn’t say anything yet. I haaaate keeping susprises a secret! 

Here’s a closer shot of the trim; it’s 
the Oseberg 12L1 pattern again

I’m just pleased that he loved it. More than that, the look on his face when he realized that I was giving him a birthday present was priceless.  Ha! 

* 

So there are TONS of events coming up in the next couple of months, and I’m working my butt off on new things, and I hope I’ll have lots of photos from the events for you. More soon! 

SCA: Experiments In “Viking Wire Knitting”

 I learned a new thing! “Viking wire knitting” or “wire weaving” is a method of making chain out of thin metal wire that goes back to at least the 5th century as far as I’ve been able to figure out. It’s been hard to find real documentable research on the craft online; apparently it’s also called “trichinopoly” chain and there are examples of it from the 5-8th century in the British Museum as well as from the Spillings Hoard from Sweden. 

My first wire chain, made of 28ga silver coated brass wire. 

I made a piece long enough to get a bracelet and necklace out of, and finished them off with random bits from my jewelry making stash - the cone ends on the necklace are too big for the chain, but they’ll do for the time being. 

The chain is made by looping the wire around a wooden dowel, and then drawing the finished result through a draw plate, which I made out of a piece of scrap wood, until it’s the right diameter. I think I could have gotten mine thinner, but I was worried about breaking the flimsy brass wire. 

Mr. Darcy apparently thought we were making a cat toy. 

Hooray for learning new fun skills! I now have a silver bracelet and necklace to wear with my kit; and I can’t wait to try this again and try out different methods of looping the wire. My chain is a single knit, but you can do double or triple knit, and there are all kinds of colors and types of wire to play with. 

SCA: Some New Additions to the Iron Age Peplos Outfit

Some updates to the new peplos outfit: 

• I overdyed the brown peplos to darken the color. It’s subtle, but I like it a lot better 
• I created some new jewelry to wear with it 
• I wove a new belt 

The jewelry is two parts: an amber and carnelian necklace I made from stash parts and a broken amber necklace; and 

A string of bronze colored chains to suspend between the shoulder brooches. They’re the wrong kind of chain, but it’s a good place to start! 

I finished the belt this morning, and I’m in love with it. It’s 8/2 cotton in blue, gold, and navy, with wrapped and braided ends. 

It also just happens to be in my household colors, which I didn’t realize until I was nearly done. Happy accident! :) 

SCA: An Iron Age Peplos Outfit (First Draft)

Here's something new for me: I made an Iron Age Peplos outfit for myself.  I really loved wearing my Roman at Warlord - it was so cool and breezy and comfortable - and I wanted something that would feel similar but still be somewhat adjacent to the styles I normally wear (similar/adjacent cultures, earlier time period).  

the Huldremose peplos

This style was fairly long-lived, and widespread throughout England and northern Europe.  It's known from several Anglo-Saxon burials, and just a TON of early Medieval artwork in which the peplos is depicted often worn over a long-sleeved under dress and under a large wrapped cloak. There's a remarkably complete wool peplos from Huldremose in Denmark (Huldremose II, not related to the "Huldremose Woman"); you also see the style in later Finnish costume from the 11th century (the "Eura dress" outfit).

My peplos is made from linen, because (a) I wanted it to be lightweight and good for hot late-summer weather, and (b) linen was what I had.  In fact, someone recently gave me a piece of linen that she didn't need for anything recently, and that's what I used.  

It started out as a light lavender color, but I dyed it to WHAT COLOR you see in the pic at the top. I actually tried to dye it with black first, hoping it would come out sort of a charcoal color - but I had forgotten that Rit's black dye is actually a deep purple, and so it came out...purple.  

Oops. It turned out it was pretty easy to fix - I treated it with Rit Color Remover, which worked remarkably well  it actually removed the “black” dye as well as most of the original lavender color, and I ended up with a sort of pale band-aid pinky peach color. The stuff smells just AWFUL, though. Anyway, I dyed the fabric again with brown and charcoal gray, and ended up with the sort of chocolate-ice-cream brown color in the first pic up top. 

Anyway, in the picture above my peplos is shown over a light blue linen “Eura” style underdress, which I made many years ago and never get to wear.. A peplos is normally folded from the side across the body and left open on the other side; because of the size and shape of my fabric piece, I had to split it into a front and a back, so it's open on both sides.  There was no sewing involved aside from hemming the edges, which I did by hand. 

It's pinned at the shoulders with a pair of round bronze brooches that I've had for years. They were my first Viking brooches, although I don't know anything about the style - I was told they were "early Viking" but I don't know anything more than that about them, or even if that's true.  But they work here for the look.  

I've seen many reenactors string beads between these brooches like you see in later Viking clothing, and sometimes people wear a long unadorned chain between them as well.  I didn't have any chain on hand that didn't look super shiny and modern, and I didn't have enough beads to make a swag for  my brooches, so for the time being I'm using a few of my leftover homemade beads on a plain cord as a necklace instead. 

The belt is the same tablet-woven one I wear with my viking dresses (not a period design, but that's an issue for another post - and seeing this outfit out together I think I’m going to make a new belt just for this outfit anyway); from it hangs an apron which is a darker blue linen remnant left over from another project. I think the blue color is too strong for the other pieces; I may replace it with a gray one or something else, I’m not sure yet. 

All in all, I'm pleased with the way this came out - it’s a pretty good “first draft.”  It needs work, but it was fun to put together and I’m looking forward to making it better. 

SCA: Footwear Update

In February I purchased a pair of Hedeby-style leather shoes online, and have altered them just a bit since I got them. 

This is what they look like now: 

They were okay the way they arrived from the shop, although they were a bit too tight to get into - I had to undo some of the stitching in order to open them up enough to allow for my weirdly high instep.  

I also wove new laces for them to replace the plain leather ties they came with; and this week I dyed them a dark brown color and re-waterproofed them.  They were...orange...before...

 

after replacing the ties and altering the 
fit a bit, but before dyeing

ORANGE!  The new color is MUCH better.  

These shoes came with hard rubber soles on them, and I put nice thick gel insoles on the inside, so they walk really well outdoors, even on gravel roads.  Hooray for comfy feet! Like my old shoes (may they rest in peace - they lasted me nearly five years!), these are a unisex historical style, so I can wear them with whatever I want. 

a selection of Viking-age shoes at the Haithabu Museum

Above is a group of shoes displayed at the Haithabu (Hedeby) Museum in Germany.  The second-from-left on the top row is the same style as my new ones.  Note that the original shoes do NOT have a tablet-woven lace, hehe.  I know, it's not historically accurate, but I wanted them to be a little prettier. 

:P 

 

SCA: Updated 9th Century Norse "Viking" Kit (female)

I know I've been posting a LOT of tablet weaving lately - the tunic and the coat and the bag - but I thought I'd show you my full [female] "Viking" kit all decked out with the jewelry and the other tablet weaving I've been doing.  This is my nicest, and my favorite, Viking outfit at the moment: 

The entire outfit is made from linen - the serk, smokkr, and the herringbone weave cloak/shawl.  Yes, wool would be more historically accurate for some of these pieces, but it's HOT here in central Ansteorra, and wool just isn't practical in this heat unless it's the middle of January.  

The dark blue smokkr was a lighter teal color, but I dyed it to a darker indigo shade to make it look nicer and more accurate (ish).  

Tablet weaving on this outfit consists of: 

• The blue and yellow band at the top of the smokkr underneath the blue silk trim fabric
• The ivory/white woven band at the neckline of the serk, which is meant to mimic the look of a woven-on edge, though it's actually just sewn in place
• The blue and white belt
• The thin strap that hangs the metal key from the right brooch (left in the picture)

Here's a better shot of the weaving and the jewelry on the front of the dress: 

The jewelry consists of

• a pair of bronze brooches purchased online
• a silver round brooch to close the serk neckline which I made from a metal button
• three strands of glass beads suspended from the bronze brooches, which I made myself (it turns out I'm awful at making beads, but I managed to get enough made to wear with my kit at least)
• a strand of tiny blue glass beads around the neck
• a strand of amber chips around the neck
• three silver raven pendants which hang from the lowest strand of beads between the brooches - two of them are period replicas, and the third is a modern knotwork design

The only thing missing from these photos is the hair and the shoes, and I'll post more about both of those things later.  

SCA: Yet Another Hedeby/Birka Bag

You know how much I love these things. This one is all made from scraps - gray linen from a pair of pants I recently made, wooden slats from an old furniture project for the handles, a bit of red silk ribbon and cotton weaving thread from my stash. 

This one is a rectangle like my others, though I gave this one a box bottom so I’d have more space inside. The bag is lined in the same gray linen, and the whole thing is hand sewn. I used the Leens hat herringbone stitch on the seams and the box bottom for a bit of extra decoration. 

 

I made the blue woven band on the front of the bag, and the red and navy strap. The strap is a new pattern for me, and I love it. I used the same pattern for a belt recently, too. 

One of my favorite parts about this bag, though, is the handles - or, rather, how I made them. A friend recently picked up a scroll saw for me on her neighborhood online swap group - I was SO thrilled! A pair of these handles (this is the “sawtooth” Birka-style handle) would normally take me several days to make with hand tools, but with the scroll saw I got these done in AN HOUR. I can’t wait to make more of these things! 

SCA: A Roman Outfit for Hot Weather

The hot weather is on the way.  It's already in the low 80s here in central Ansteorra, and by the end of May  - and the next event being Steppes' Warlord on Memorial Day weekend - it's likely going to be in the 90s.  Last year I wore  my guy's Viking outfit to this event and I BAKED ALIVE.  This year, I decided to make myself a new Roman outfit - loose, lightweight, and breezy.  

The chiton  is a medium-weight blue linen.  The correct way to make one of these would be to have one long length of fabric folded across the body from side to side; but to conserve fabric (and money) I had a shorter length of fabric which I split into two 2y squares.  

Where the wrapped side should be left open, I went ahead and seamed both sides of this garment for modesty's sake - the site where the Warlord event will be held is wide open and  notoriously windy, and I didn't want to accidentally flash anyone.  

The green palla is a length of sheer cotton gauze that I harvested from an old costume and re-cut for this purpose.  It may not be as breezy and cool as handkerchief-weight linen would be, but it drapes very nicely and I love the color.  

The sleeve openings are held together with small bronze buttons for a bit of a decorative look. 

This whole outfit is hand-sewn, by the way.  I have a BIG hand-sewing project coming up this summer, and I needed the practice.  Since this outfit is basically just a collection of large rectangles, most of the sewing was actually just hemming (whipstitching).  

The under tunic, which is a white handkerchief-weight linen, is a simple rectangular sheath tacked together at the shoulders and arm edges, so that it mimics the shape of the chiton when worn.

This was a piece I already had in my closet from a previous Roman outfit; I removed the neck and opened up the shoulder seams and re-sewed everything to make this more of a period shape at the neckline and arms. 

I made some jewelry to go with this outfit, too - and hey, look, it's a rare picture of my ACTUAL FACE. 

The necklace is pink freshwater pearls and gold brass wire; the earrings are mother-of-pearl drops and gold brass fittings/wire. Both are inspired by jewelry I've seen in period artwork and sculpture, and in Egyptian mummy portraits of Roman/Egyptian people.  

My hair is tucked into a red ribbon band which is tied around my head, in a style also inspired by some I've seen in period artworks.  The makeup is also inspired by several mummy portraits I've seen.  

So I'm all ready for Warlord, and the hot weather.  Bring it on!  

Regency: The Pineapple Reticule

Here is the silliest thing I've ever made: a pineapple reticule! 

A few weeks ago I learned that pineapple reticules were a thing - at least one of them, that I know of. This knit pineapple purse is housed in the Kyoto Costume Institute’s 1800-1810 collection (as featured on JaneAusten.co.uk) 

The extant purse is knit in silk, in several shades of yellow and green.  The blog linked above states that pineapples and other tropical fruit were very much en vogue during the early regency, but sadly, I cannot find any other examples of period fruit-like knit or fabric objects online. But this one example is enough for me! 

There are lots of patterns for similar knit reticules on Ravelry and Etsy. I am not a knitter - I crochet (crocodile stitch, maybe?), but I didn’t happen to have any yellow or green yarn sitting around. What I did have was a three yard length of 6” wide yellow poly satin fabric that I wasn’t doing anything with, so I decided to sew a little pineapple bag. 

For the body, I sewed four 6" wide strips of satin together to make a large rectangle, then pintucked the whole thing on the bias, and sewed the result into a tube. The lining is yellow cotton from an old sheet I had sitting around to make mock-ups with. 

The  “leaves” are big triangles attached to the top edge of the tube, and I ran a drawstring (pale gold ribbon) around the top of the bag just beneath the leaves on the inside of the bag so that they'd stand up when the bag is closed.  I didn’t have anything green to use for the leaves, so I cut off part of the yellow piece and dyed it green with Rit’s Dyemore for synthetics in “peacock green,” which yielded this lovely leaf green color: 

The leaves being put together, and the yellow cotton lining: 

And here's the round, flat bottom of the bag, also green. The little covered button on the bottom is just for fun, and just because I love covered buttons:

Y'all, I CANNOT stop giggling at this thing.  It's so silly!  This is officially the silliest thing I've ever made, and it pleases my heart.  HEE HEE HEE.  

Regency: A Work Apron

Here’s something a bit weird: I made a Regency item for SCA use.  I remembered kind of late that I had promised a friend that I’d help him in the kitchen at Candlemas, and I had this fancy Italian dress that I needed to protect - so I needed an apron. 

I had wanted a Regency apron for a while (I love Elinor’s tan gardening apron in the 1995 Sense & Sensibility movie and have wanted one ever since).  And so I figured, since nobody would really see me in it at the event, I would go ahead and make a Regency apron to wear over my Italian outfit. 

(I swear those pockets are actually even, I don't know why they look wonky on the mannequin; they look fine on me). 

There's not really a pattern; it’s really just a couple of rectangles and some long ties. It’s made out of an old, blue, cotton sheet that I had saved to use as mock-up fabric. The shoulder straps cross over and loop around the waist tie in the back; and there are two large pockets on the front. 

I also made a pair of sleeve covers, which I know I’ve seen somewhere in period on a maid or someone like that - probably on TV - to keep my silk sleeves clean. They’re elasticized at the top and bottom for ease of wear. 

Wearing a Regency apron with 15th century clothing is a bit silly, but I got a pretty blue apron out of it and now I won't get any food on my Italian outfit, so, win-win. 

SCA: Candlemas 2024: Green 1490s Italian - the Accessories

A week ago I posted about the 1490s Florentine outfit I made for Candlemas in February - today’s post is about all the accessories that went into the outfit: 

Hair/Headgear

I’ll talk about my hair first, since it was a lot of fun - I used fake hair for the first time ever for this outfit! It was given to me by a friend several months ago, and I finally fixed it up and wore some of it for this outfit. It was really neat - it’s been two years since I cut all my hair off in order to grow out my gray (and I’m growing it back as fast as I can!) - and it felt soooo good to at least have the feel and weight of long hair again. I miss my hair! 

Anyway, I clipped two long silvery-gray extensions into my hair, then braided it all into a single braid down my back. The front of my hair was parted in the middle and smoothed down over my ears, and I curled the bits that were too short to be included in the braid. I wrapped the braid in gold ribbon, wider at the top and end to hide the elastic bands which contained the braid, with thin gold ribbon spiraled around the length of the braid. 

My inspiration for the hairstyle and headgear were from several paintings, like these: 

La Bella Principessa, Leonardo DaVinci

fragment from a painting of Lodovica
Tuornabuoni, Domenico Ghirlandaio

La Belle Feronniere, DaVinci

I created a reta - a netted skullcap like you see in the first two paintings - using a base of cotton needlepoint mesh canvas.   Once I had the shape figured out, I sewed/knotted the mesh pieces together, and then spray-painted the piece gold, which stiffened the mesh so that it held its shape better. Then I sewed gold metallic braided trim over the seam to hide it, and around the edges, and then attached a long gold ribbon to the corners to tie under my chin. 

Over the top of it all is a feronniere - mine is a long thin black velvet ribbon, onto which I threaded three gold beads spaced out along the front. 

The whole look goes something like this: 

The hair needs work - I like the false hairpiece, but my own hair in the front/side is very flyaway and frizzy looking.  Gotta figure out what to do about that.  

Jewelry

The necklace that I made to wear with this outfit is one of those kits where you press an acrylic cabochon (over a picture or flower petals or what-have-you) into the [pewter] setting - I’ve used these kits for Regency jewelry in the past. For this pendant, I painted the back of the cab with blueish iridescent nail polish, and the effect is sort of labradorite-ish, and I love the way it looks, and the way the color looks with the green and aqua/gold colors in the outfit.  

The pendant is hung on am 16" gold chain; and worn with a second much longer chain which is tucked into the neckline of my gamurra. 

I opted not to wear earrings with this outfit, since my hair covers my ears anyway. 

Purse

I wanted a new purse/pouch to go with this outfit, since my other SCA pouches are all blue and red. I used scraps of the sleeve fabric, cut into orange-wedge-shaped pieces, and lined the bag with some spare blue cotton sheeting I had lying around.  I couched a thin gold cord along each seam line on the outside, added a little fabric-covered button to the bottom to hide the joint between all the seams, and laced the top with a gold satin ribbon.  

Tada! I did a practice run on the whole costume today - doing my hair and getting completely dressed took me about forty minutes! SHEESH. I need a lady’s maid.  Everything is finally finished, though, and now I just have to sit back and wait until the event.  In three weeks.  I guess I'll go crochet something, hehe.  

SCA: Finishing A Long-Overdue UFO

This week I completed a UFO (unfinished object) that's been outstanding for SEVEN YEARS.  

In 2015 I made this linen Skjoldehamn hood.  I'd meant to put a lining in it, since it was just medium-weight linen, but I never got around to it.  I did at one point embroider the edges of the hood (apparently? I don't remember doing it), but it still wasn't lined, and so it wasn't warm enough or heavy enough to really be functional, or even really sit right. The first thing I did this week was remove the decorative embroidery, since it was (a) in my way and (b) not period-appropriate for this garment piece. 

The original hood, found in Norway in 1936 and dating from the 10th century, is made of wool, with a woven (probably whipcord) woolen tie in the center of the hood which can be used to tie the hood closed in the front or tied behind the head.  

Mine is made of linen instead of wool, because at the time I started this project I still thought I was allergic to wool (I'm allergic to the chemicals they use to treat wool fabrics, but I've since learned that those can be carefully washed away and I'm fine).  I went ahead and lined it in linen (actually a linen/cotton blend) because the outside was linen.  I've omitted the ties on mine for the time being. 

Also, since my hood was machine-sewn, I went ahead and sewed the lining by machine as well; although all the stitching that shows - where the inside and outside are stitched together around the face and the lower hemline - are done by hand (whipstitch), and the trim is sewn on by hand (running stitch through the outside edges of the trim). 

Here's my finished hood: 

I applied a thin card-woven trim to the bottom edge of the hood, which I wove myself last week (my second-ever card weaving experiment).  It's made of #10 cotton crochet thread in brown and light gray, because that's what I had on hand.  I got the pattern from this website; it's a design which was inspired by some of the Oseberg weaving patterns (not an actual period copy).  

Hooray, it's finally finished and I can wear it!  This will look great with my men's Viking outfit this fall. (The men's Viking outfit is getting a major overhaul right now, I'll show you when it's done). 

For reference, here's a photo of the original Skjoldehamn hood as found on the bog body: 

the Skjoldehamn hood

More information on the Skjoldehamn hood: 

Náttmál. “A Skjoldehamn Hood.” NÁTTMÁL, 21 Mar. 2021, nattmal.wordpress.com/2016/03/16/skjoldehamn-hood/ 

Dan Halvard Løvlid (English translation by Carol Lynn) – The Skjoldehamn find in the light of new knowledge, 2011

Carletti, Francesca. “The Skjoldehamn Hood Class Handout.” Carlys_sewing, Her Ladyship Francesca Carletti, July 2016, carlyfenton.files.wordpress.com/2016/05/theskjoldenhamnhood_revised.pdf

Brennasdottir, Ula, "Skjoldehamn Hood" 2021 (SCA blog) https://medievalexcellence.com/2021/05/12/skjoldehamn-hood/

Regency: Mitts!

Mitts are neat.  After making the crocheted fingerless gloves last week, I decided I needed some longer, fabric ones.  You see them a lot in 18th and early 19th century costumes; they show up again later at various points in the Victorian ages, and are popular even now as crocheted and knitted "wrist warmers."  I’ve seen several Regency sets around the internet on museum site and on other blogs, and Fanny Dashwood wears black mitts to the wedding with her gorgeous half-mourning lavender outfit in Sense & Sensibility: 

Here are some extant mitts I found on various museum websites: 

Blue leather mitts, late 18th century or early 19th, Boston MFA

Embroidered/bejeweled mitts, early 19th century, MMOA

The first pair I made are a little wonky. I used the remainder of the green embroidered (polyester) taffeta fabric that I used for my green reticule. The fabric is very stiff, so they don’t conform well to my hands (even though they were cut on the bias), and the edges stand out a bit. I made these entirely by hand the other day when my power was out due to the ice storms: 

My second pair is made of cotton voile, very light and sheer, and they hug my hand very well. They were also cut on the bias, and this time I made them as tight as I dared. I made these a little longer, and re-shaped the hand and elbows a bit to correct those protruding edges. I sewed these on the machine with little tiny French seams, because of the way this fabric frays; and finished them by hand. I love the sheerness of the fabric here; I’m always secretly pleased when you can see my tattoos through my frilly white Regency things, hehe. 

You’ll notice I didn’t put any actual thumbs into this pattern  I admit to being a little afraid of them. Working with such tiny pieces and tight spaces is hard for my hands, and to be honest, I’m okay with just thumb holes. 

Because it cracks me up, I’d like to show you the paper pattern I made for these once I had them fitted properly: 

Don’t worry, there are no Cowboys fans in this house,  or even any football fans. I bought this paper as a gag to wrap a birthday gift in for a friend who hates the Cowboys, many years ago, and as I am currently out of pattern paper, well, you see what happened.  Wrapping paper is *horrible* for patterning, as it rips very easily and wants to curl, but you gotta make do where you can sometimes.