SCA: The Køstrup Dress (Part III, Glass Beads)

This is the third post in a three-part series about creating the outfit from Grave ACQ in Kostrup, Denmark.  Part one, about the tablet weaving, can be found here; part two about sewing the dress, was posted here.  

The body in grave ACQ was found with 8 beads: 2 rock crystal (quartz), and 6 glass.  I wanted to make an exact copy of the beads in the find for my outfit, and I had most of the glass already in my possession (although I did have to go buy a couple of new rods for a couple of the beads).  

 

 

photo by Matthew Delveaux

This photo, from Matthew Delveaux's blog Text and Trowel, shows the ACQ beads as found:  (clockwise from left) a dark purple bead that looks almost black, a red round bead, an orange round bead, a small white bead with red figures on it, a round rock crystal bead, a square  green bead, another rock crystal bead, and a white barrel-shaped bead in the center.  

I already had some of the beads I needed in my stash:  I had two deep purple beads (the very first beads I ever made!), and the red round beads.  I also had a quantity of clear quartz beads that I had purchased from the craft store many years ago.

The other beads I had to make specifically for this project: the green square, the orange round, and the two white beads.  My local glass store had the colors I needed; they'd just moved to a new location and their lampworking stuff wasn't even unpacked yet, but the store manager very kindly offered to go dig out what I needed since it was only a few pieces.  

 

 

 

Here are the 6 beads I made, together with the quartz beads.  It took me very little time to make these – I think I average about 5-8 minutes per bead for the plain round ones. The white one with the red streaks took me a little longer, since I’m honestly not all that great at laying glass on top of glass and it took me several attempts.

I already had two purple beads, two red, and two quartz; so I decided to make two of everything else so that I’d have a set of beads to put on my dress, and a second set to place on my display table for people to inspect more closely.   

 

ATTACHING THEM TO THE DRESS

The beads found in grave ACQ were loose, for the most part: there was a wool thread in some of them, but it wasn't attached to the dress, and there was a linen thread in some of them which also wasn’t attached to the dress.  So we're not sure exactly (a) how the beads were attached to the outfit, or (b) in what order the beads were strung on the thread.  So I just did what felt right to me. 

Hilde Thunem puts her string of glass beads at the top of the brooches on this dress so that the string of beads doesn't cover the band of tablet weaving, the same way as Charlotte Rimstad showed in her illustration.  I thought that was a pretty good interpretation of how these beads might've been used, so I attempted to do the same thing: 

 

The problem is, I couldn’t figure out how to get the beads to stay up there.  If I put the strings on the brooch pins, they would slide down and cover up the tablet weaving I worked so hard on.  To get them to stay I had to wrap the strings around and underneath the brooches, but I don’t know if the strings will stay in place when actually wearing the outfit. I may have to resort to pinning the string in place under the brooches.  

So, with that, my linen Kostrup dress interpretation is all finished! I'm super happy with the way it came out, especially the tablet weaving, which was a LOT of work.  I think the dress took me about 14 hours to complete and assemble; the table weaving took me about 7 hours, and the beads about 2 hours (it only takes maybe 5-7 minutes per bead, but I’m out of practice and I had to make several of each kind to get it right).

Thankfully, I got this thing done on time.  I had the worst procrastination issues with this outfit, which I usually work very hard to avoid.  I've done the "sewing in the car on the way to the event" thing to get projects finished, and it's not fun, so I usually plan way ahead and try to get A&S projects done at least two weeks before the event so that I have time to polish my documentation and put finishing touches on my table displays.  This time, I misjudged the time I had left to work very badly and almost didn't make it - the event is in like a week and a half! Whew.  

*

So what's next?  REST.  I have two big projects planned for this summer, and a few small "side quest" things in between...but for now, I'm going to go to Bjornsborg next weekend and have FUN, and then I'm going to come home and NOT work on anything for a couple of weeks!  

SCA: Just Some Viking Stuff

In addition to spending two months whomping up a new Italian outfit for Candlemas, which was this past weekend, I also, in that space of time, made a TON of largesse items for a largesse competition that was supposed to be held at the event. 

I started working just before Thanksgiving, and finished about the middle of January; and I made the following items: 

thirteen Hedeby bags

1.  Hedeby bags!  

I love making these things, and I had plenty of supplies on hand, so I went for it. The handles are a simple, curvy Hedeby-style similar to the ones I usually make (based on the handles found at Hedeby and Birka), and they are made from 1/4" red oak flooring pieces that someone gave to me a few years ago. The handles were cut on my table saw and shaped with a hacksaw and electric sander; then stained with a walnut Minwax stain.  It took me about a week to produce all thirteen pairs of handles.  

The bags are hand sewn out of linen, because I had a lot of linen scraps on hand that were perfectly sized for this project. Some are lined, some are not, depending on the weight of the linen used. Each bag has a hand-stitched trim in a braided/herringbone stitch, examples of which were found on an apron dress fragment from Hedeby and on a hat from Denmark; some are bands across the front of the bag, some are stitched around the top edge, and some are covering the side seams. The handles are sewn onto the bag with matching thread (cotton embroidery floss).  Each bag, from sewing to decorating to handle attachment, took me about three hours.  

The bags's carrying straps are a combination of flat card-woven bands, and tubular card-woven cord bands made after a method I found described in this paper by L. Elena Hylton.  You use 4-6 cards with 4 holes threaded, and pass the weft thread/shuttle through one side of the warp only, looping under the warp to get back to the first side (instead of going right-to-left and then left-to-right as you do in "regular" card weaving).  This causes the weave to pull itself into a hollow round tube when you pull the weft tight, instead of creating a flat band. This method of weaving tubular cording is documentable to as early as the 1100s, according to Elena's research. I used 6 cards for my tubular straps, after I found 4 to make a square-profile band and I really wanted a rounder profile.  I also found that it's harder to weave this tubular band after switching the card's direction in order to untwist the threads - for some reason it just works better going "fowards" than going "backwards".  I'll have to practice it more. 

tubular strap

thirteen woven bands

2.  Tablet-woven trim

Something else I really, really enjoy doing.  I had a number of spools of cotton crochet thread on hand from another project, and so I used up my excess on thirteen 1.5-2 yard pieces of trim.  

There are five different designs, each very simple and no more than 10 cards each, and all are either period designs or based on period designs. Each one took me about 3 hours to make from warping to finishing. 

3. Lampworked glass beads 

I hadn't made glass beads for several months (due to it being summer, and about 120ºF inside my garage where my glass workshop is set up), and I needed the practice badly. I'm not very good at doing this - I'm still VERY much a beginner, so my beads aren't, like, awesome or anything - but they'll make nice additions to someone's Viking kit, I'm hoping.  

I made thirteen sets of 8 beads.  All of them are about 8mm in size; some are round, some drum-shaped with flat sides, and some are kind of round/oval with little bumps or dots on them - there are 2 of these "fancy" beads in each set, and 6 plain ones.  It took me about a month to make all the beads, working in 20-minute sessions of about 7 beads per session (not all of which turned out right).  

 

Guess What? 

For some reason, the competition didn’t happen at the event. I don’t know why it got scrubbed - I KNOW I read a whole post about it on the event page two months ago, but no one knew anything about it when I got there and asked about where to set up. Shoot! All that work...!  Not "for nothing" - after all, I'm now prepared to enter the next largesse competition, whenever that happens.  

Meanwhile, I learned a lot, and got a lot of good practice with woodworking and weaving. And glass bead making, although I'm kind of burnt out on glass beads for the time being and probably won't be doing any of that any time soon.  We'll see.  

dry run of display at home

SCA: On Making Glass Beads and New Viking Jewelry

At the beginning of March I posted about making my own glass beads at home (here).  I'm still going strong, and I'm getting better with every batch I make.  It's SO much fun, and although it's pretty fast, it takes a lot of focus to get them right. 

My work table, all set up and ready to go

Right now I'm making about 7-10 beads per session, about 2 sessions per week.  Most of the beads I've made have been in shades of blue and green, although I recently picked up some white and yellow to throw into the mix and to use to make dots and stripes on my beads.  So far I've mostly been focusing on perfecting my round and oval-shaped beads, and learning to control the glass enough to make some larger ones; my next phase I think will be getting better at making dots and stripes and other patterns.  

A selection of beads I've made at home

All of this, of course, has been for the purpose of re-making my "festoon" for my 10th-century Viking kit.  Until now, the strands of beads I hang between my brooches have been made of store-bought beads - mostly glass and acrylic, in blue and amber tones.  I liked the color arrangement of my most recent iteration of the necklaces, but the beads were too perfect and modern looking; and to be honest, the more I look at the grave finds, the more this necklace just looks plastic and garish to me: 

My most recent set of necklaces, in modern store-bought beads

It's an SCA-ism, I suppose, that the more huge and ostentatious you can make your Viking jewelry, the better.  The reality is that (based on grave finds) most of these bead necklaces ranged from 18-20 beads per person, and that the beads themselves ranged from 10-16mm each.  We have no idea how exactly women wore these bead strands - whether they were worn as a single strand or multiple strands, how many beads per strand, etc., because only the loose beads have been found - whatever material the beads were strung on has disintegrated with time.  Found beads are usually glass, although some of amber, jet, quartz crystal, and carnelian have been found as well.  These were understated jewelry pieces by SCA standards - not 30 pounds of rocks and glass to impress your friends.

My first  "festoon" necklace set with about 95% homemade beads

Here's what my new set looks like for the time being.  Beads are small-medium sized, with a couple of larger ones in the center of each strand, in shades of blue and green and yellow.  (There are also 4 glass beads that I didn't make included here as well, because I loved them and wanted to re-use them).  It's simpler and plainer; and the beads themselves are more in line with what I've seen from grave finds in color and shape and size.  

A couple of smaller points, because people have asked:  

This necklace is strung on #10 cotton crochet thread.  I forgot to wax it this time for strength, so we'll see how it holds up. (The last set did just fine). 

I have three raven pendants that I hang from my beads. Two of them are historical representations based on actual finds; the third is a modern pendant I received for my birthday many years ago. The use of metal pendants may or may not be period (it's probably not); but I love my ravens.  

I no longer incorporate metal beads into my design, now that I have enough glass beads to make up the entire piece.  I read somewhere that metal beads have been found in graves/a grave, but I can't find the source anymore, and I've also read that metal beads were NOT a thing, so for the time being I'm not including them unless I can find something definitive one way or the other.   

 

Glass bead on an iron mandrel, Gotland (photo from 

Gotland Visby Museum; via text and trowel) 

So, what's next? More beads! This is my first set of necklaces; I fully intend to keep going, to get better and learn how to do more patterns and styles.  I would like to make a better set of necklaces for myself, and I'd also like to make enough beads that I can start giving them away as presents and largesse.  

I want to write for pages and pages on Viking-age bead finds, and maybe I will someday (maybe I'll turn all this into an A&S project and write a huge paper one day), but for now, here are some of my favorite online places to go to read about Viking-age beads: 

• Dr. Matthew Delvaux's FANTASTIC blog about Viking-age glass beads and trade routes, called "text and trowel": https://textandtrowel.wordpress.com/ 
• A Wandering Elf's Viking bead research blog posts: http://awanderingelf.weebly.com/blog-my-journey/category/viking-bead-research 
• Viking Age Beads, by Elin Hreitharsdottir https://www.researchgate.net/publication/273133694_Viking_age_beads_from_Iceland 
• Perler fra vikingtiden (Beads of the Viking Age) by Megan Hickey https://etheses.whiterose.ac.uk/8571/1/Megan%20Hickey%20MA%20Final%20Dissertation%202014.pdf

Playing With Fire

Guess what I did last night?  I attended our local Flameworks Guild and learned how to make lampwork glass beads!  It was a lot more challenging than I expected it to be, and a little bit scary, having fire and molten glass so close to my face;  but I'm definitely hooked, and I can't wait til next time.  Here are the beads I made last night:

Aren't they ridiculous?  I guess they're not too terrible, for a first try.  I may actually add the two burgundy/purple ones to my Viking necklaces.  I actually don't like orange much, but the glass was free, and it was my first time - these are just first tries, they don't have to be fancy and wonderful (my skills so far don't remotely support fancy and wonderful anyway).  Next time - in January - I'll bring a few supplies of my own, including some blue glass, so that I can work on something that will go with my existing necklaces and my wardrobe.

Yay!  I can't wait to do this again!