SCA: 2026 Summer Project, Phase III (Jacket)

The third component of my summer project is the short jacket.  The thing is, the authors of the 2025 paper on the Bryndum grave G12 didn't actually specify exactly what type of garment it is or how it was constructed.  They say that it's a "short jacket" reaching to about the hip, and they say that it appears to have been tailored to the body based on the way some of the pattern pieces and seams are oriented - it's not just a straight rectangular cut.  But aside from that, details are scant. So, just like with the pleated serk, there's a lot of filling in the blanks based on what I know of other, similar garments (in my head I'm thinking of this as "substituting with frog DNA" like in Jurassic Park, lol).  

So, there are two types of outerwear jacket/coat known from 9th-century Norse graves: the klappenrock, which is a rectangular-cut short (hip or thigh length) jacket that has a cross-over wrap front which is secured by a belt.  This garment has only been found in a couple of graves, and all of men.  The other type is the caftan we know from Inga Hagg's analysis of the Birka graves, which she documented as having belonged to female graves, and which is a longer, open-fronted garment secured with a brooch or pin in the center front, very similar to the buttoned caftans we see in Slavic and Russian settings from the same time period. 

My adaptation is modeled after Hagg's "caftan" garment.  It's cut with curved armpit/sleeve seams instead of the square armpit gusset you see in rectangular construction, and with sides and back fitted to the body and then tapered outwards to form the "skirt" of the jacket that fits over the hips.  We have no guidance from the ATR article on how this jacket was constructed other than the note that it was likely tailored to the body, so I've done the best I can in fitting the pattern a bit more exactly than you get with rectangular construction.  

Where the Bryndum jacket is made of wool lined with linen, I've made my adaptation out of a heavy (9oz) linen with a lighter weight (5oz) lining.  (I started with a "medium" (9oz) weight wool fabric, but it was WAY too heavy for this application and it would have looked just awful, so I decided to start over with linen fabric instead, which just happens to be much better suited to the hot Ansteorran summers and to machine-washing anyway. After all, I DO actually want to be able to wear - and wash -  this outfit!)  

I have absolutely no idea how the Norse would have accomplished lining their wool garments;  I chose to flat-line my jacket, by first basting the lining pieces to the jacket pieces and then sewing the combined pieces together.  Why? Mostly because I just like the way the felled seams look on a flat-lined garment; we do have examples of this type of lining in newer garments from the 14th and 15th centuries, so at least it's "SCA period" if not specifically known from Norse finds. Because I was going to be removing the basting stitches as I went along, I used a cotton sewing thread to baste the lining/outer pieces together; the actual sewing is done with linen thread which just *almost* matches the blue fabric (it was as close as I could find). 

Stitches used are pretty basic:  running stitch (seams), back stitch (seam reinforcement every few inches), and whip stitch (to fell the seam allowances open). There's also a staggered running stitch which the ATR article discusses as relates to hemming the top of the apron dress, which I used to hem the edges and the sleeve cuffs of the jacket.  

So. That's my Bryndum jacket for the time being.  I'm keeping my ear to the ground on this one - I can't wait to read more papers on the find, and I hope there'll be much more detailed analysis on the whole outfit in the future.  

Oh, and yes, this is what the wooden display stand that I built in May was for.  I plan to display the serk and apron dress on my dress dummy, and this jacket on the wooden stand.  I'm going to need to get a wagon to cart all this stuff around!  

Next stop: the apron dress...

SCA: 2026 Summer Project, Progress Report

Things on my big summer project are proceeding apace.  In April I posted about a pleated serk I made; in May I built a wooden display stand for part of the project.  

This whole thing is about the woman's outfit found in grave G12 at Bryndum in Denmark in 2016 (which I posted about in December).   I'm...not "recreating" the outfit, but I'm adapting a version suited for rough SCA use - linen instead of wool, cotton weaving thread instead of wool and flax - all to make this thing able to stand up to harsh use and machine washing.  

Yes, I started out the project in wool, but the fabric I bought was too heavy, so I ordered some new linen fabric and started over a few weeks ago, and altered the direction my documentation was going to reflect the changes.  I'm MUCH happier with the way it's going now, and I think it's going to look fantastic when it's all done. 

At the moment I'm working on the "jacket" for the outfit, and when I'm not sewing, I'm weaving the bands which will become the straps for the apron dress (see the December blog post for details).  

Here's a pile of pattern pieces all basted together with the lining pieces, ready to be sewn together.  I'm sewing with waxed linen thread, although I did the basting with regular cotton machine thread since I was going to pull it out anyway and discard it as I sewed the seams.  

And here's a bit of the tablet weaving I'm working on for the straps. The pattern is "Mammen Mia" by L. Elewys von Finchingfield, who adapted the pattern off one of the motifs from a woven band found at Mammen from the 9-10th century.  Since I'm working in 8/4 cotton thread instead of thicker wool threads, the bands are a bit narrower than the extant examples, but since they'll be doubled and sewn together, they should be plenty strong (I'll get into that a bit more later when I do a post on just the tablet weaving).  I will say, though, that this is my first pattern with only two threads per card instead of four, and it is kicking my BUTT.  It's so slooowwww and tedious.  I'm really not enjoying it, LOL.  

Busy busy!  I should finish the jacket by the end of this week, and then I'll have pictures of the whole thing for you. After that I have to finish the weaving, and then sew a matching apron dress to complete the set.  

KAS is in two months, so I've got plenty of time to finish this outfit (and my documentation) - I'm looking forward to being so I can take a break, although I've already got the next three projects planned out and one started, hehe.  SO much to do, always!  

SCA: Stuff and Things

I'm hard at work on my Kingdom A&S project, but it's going r e a l l y  s l o w l y so I don't have much to show for myself on part 2 just yet.  The wool material that I bought for it turned out to be much thicker than I was expecting, which is making sewing it much more difficult and lots slower than usual. I wish I had a lighter weight fabric, but it's paid for, so I'm pushing forward with what I've got.  Slowly. 

 

Meanwhile, I took a break to go to Queen's Champion this past weekend to help my friend Cris in the kitchen (he was in charge of doing the luncheon for the event).  I was craving an SCA event to go to, so I threw on my new blue tunic dress and hopped in the car to go help.  It was a lot of hard work, but it was fun, and the food was awesome. 

That’s me in the front/right slicing bread (photo by Mistress Osanna van der Linden)

Because I'm somehow not busy enough with my current A&S project, and because I'm a crazy person, I went ahead and started something new just for fun;  a new 1520s Florentine gown to wear to the next Italian shindig that happens.  I had a huge box of aqua-blue cotton velveteen Ikea curtains in my closet, and I decided to use it for this project - all I would need is a couple of yards of contrast fabric for some parts, and a selection of laces and trims and stuff that I could get for cheap from Etsy.  So far I've got a mock-up made and a new pattern drafted  to my satisfaction, but I haven't started the actual dress yet.  More on that soon…

I did already make the jewelry for it, because I was excited about the project and couldn't wait.  I do this a lot with jewelry - usually because while I'm waiting for costume parts to come in the mail, I just happen to already have the jewelry supplies on hand.  This time I made some new mother-of-pearl earrings, and a pearl chain necklace with freshwater pearls and a blue stone (I think it's just dyed calcite) in the center pendant:  

Hopefully I'll have more about that Italian gown and my A&S project for you in the next couple of weeks.  Ta!  

SCA: 2026 Summer Project, Part 1 (Pleated Serk)

 My big summer project (which I’m hoping will be my Kingdom A&S project) is not only begun, but partway finished: 

That needs ironing, sorry 

I’ve always wanted to try my hand at making a pleated-neckline serk, and now I have  The serk took me 11 hours almost exactly; that’s including drafting the pattern and making a couple of mock-ups to test the fit in the shoulders.  

Pretty decent side gores (outside)

The whole thing is hand sewn, using linen thread the same color as the fabric (it’s a dyed fabric, but it’s a natural linen color).  

Gathering the neckline

The only exception is in the neckline, which I gathered using mercerized cotton sewing thread, because it slides through the fabric better than the linen thread  the blue cotton thread was removed once the neckline was completed. 

Neckline binding strip at the slit

The Pskov serk, on which I based my overall design for this project, has the front made in two panels cut along the selvedge, with the selvedge edge in the center so that the neckline slit doesn’t need to be hemmed. I…forgot to cut it that way. Oops. Rather than doing a tiny rolled hem here like I usually do, I opted to finish the slit with a thin (3/8”) bias strip to protect the edges against wear and tear.  I don’t know if this is necessarily a period-accurate technique - but the neckline binding strip is made in the same way, so they knew HOW to do it at any rate. 

Inside view

You know how I feel about armpit gussets…but this one came out fairly nicely, if I do say so myself. 

So now we move on to the next phase of this 4-part project: the smokkr/apron dress that goes over this pleated serk. It’ll be simple and straightforward - for once the smokkr is not the star of the show…but we’ll get to that in another post. 

SCA: Side Quest: New Casual Tunic Dress

Sometimes you want to dress down a bit, you know?  Work days at camp, slow afternoons before court, and days when I just don’t feel like wearing 90lb of jewelry. I didn’t have anything like that. 

So I made this quick little tunic dress: 

It’s linen, and hand sewn with cotton sewing thread. The color might be a bit bright for historical accuracy, but I love it. It took me about a week to make this, working 2-4 hours per day. 

The sleeves are extra long so that they’ll bunch up on my forearms, like this cute little bronze figurine: 

The darker blue binding on the neckline and sleeves is made from linen scraps from another project. I was going to add some tablet weaving to just the front slit, but I didn’t have anything already made that I liked for this, and I don’t feel like weaving à tiny piece just for this. 

And with that out of the way, I’m moving on to my next BIG project for Kingdom A&S in September.  I have six months to make three pieces and weaving all the things. 

I’ll be doing more little side quests in between working on it, though. I still haven’t figured out what to do about embellishing thst wool hood, so that’s one. I also have a tablet weaving project I want to work on in my spare time, too. More soon! 

SCA: Small Stuff To Do

 I'm going to be starting on my Kingdom A&S project at the end of March, but in the meantime I'm working on a few small things:  

1.  A New Skjoldehamn Hood

These things have become like the Hedeby bag for me -  I love making them, and now I have three of them.  I threw this one together at Bjornsborg's spring event last weekend. It's cut from the last scraps from Ivar's coat which I made a few months ago.  I sat at the event and sewed it by hand from start to finish, and now it just needs embellishment - I'm not sure whether to do tablet weaving or some sort of decorative stich (I hate the "blanket stitch" that the original extant hood has on it and I refuse to do that because ew, LOL).  So here it is right now, finished but undecorated: 

2.  New key hanger strap

I used to wear my Viking key on a tablet woven cord that I made aeons ago, but I had put it onto a linen tool strap for my Kostrup dress display at Bjornsborg.  In the meantime, I wove a new "cord" for it - it's a tablet woven band of only 4 cards, two borders and a central V.  It's very thin, but it's stronger than a linen strap for sure.  So I put the key on the new one just the other day: 

3. A New Tunic Dress/Gown

I typically only wear a serk (underdress) and smokkr (apron dress) as the base of my Norse kit, but there's a third layer that goes between the two: a tunic dress or gown, same shape and design as the serk but usually in a heavier fabric which can be worn with or without the apron dress.  Since I don't always want to wear the apron dress and brooches, I decided I needed a new tunic dress to wear by itself for "casual days" at events.  It can be worn over a serk, and dressed up with a woven belt, necklaces, and a brooch at the front neckline.  Simple, attractive, and accurate (except for the material choice, since this one is linen instead of wool).  

The pic here is of a similar tunic dress I made long ago and re-dyed last year; the new one will be light blue with a darker blue band on the neckline and sleeve cuffs: 

4. New Winingas Ties

I really, really like the look of a long tie/band wrapped around the bottom of Norse pants on a guy.  Since I dress as a guy periodically, I wanted to adopt that look, and so I'm weaving some looooong (120") ties to wrap around my legs, either over just my pants, or on top of my winingas.  I'm not sure about the colors, but I think it'll go well with my blue and red-trimmed Norse tunic and gray pants.  I'm also not sure when I'll ever finish these - I'm only halfway through the first one and I started it like three weeks ago.  I just haven't had a lot of time to weave lately.  

5. Got Wood? 

I also have two woodworking projects going on right now:  the first is an upright loom that my teacher Haraldr is guiding me on.  It's kind of like the Oseberg loom, but a little later-period in style and look, but it'll function the same way.  I'm working on chiseling out the mortises for the cross beam right now. 

I also want to build myself a very simple T-shaped garment stand that I can use to display shorter things on a table top, like tunics, jackets, hoods, etc.  For an event next year I'm going to be displaying both a complete female outfit on my dress dummy, as well as a male tunic/jacket that I'll need to put on a table, so I'll need a stand.  

This is a terrible drawing, but you get the idea

So that's what's going on right now.  More pics as I finish stuff; and of course I'll start boring you with all the hairy details of  my KAS project as soon as I get it started.  

SCA: Side Quest: A New Hedeby Bag

This one’s just for fun, as I needed something to do over the weekend and had some fabric scraps lying around. 

The herringbone wool outer fabric was leftover from a larger project (Ivar’s klappenrock).  It’s a trapezoidal shape because I just wanted to try it out; it’s got a box bottom and sides; and it’s got a herringbone stitch over the seams in cotton weaving thread (same stitch pattern as you see on the “Leens Hat”).  

The lining is pale green linen from stash. The whole bag is hand sewn. My friend Waylan made the handles on his CNC router, and I finished and stained them. I love the handles - I’ve had them laser-cut before and I didn’t like the scorching thst happens on the edges. The CNC router leaves a nice clean-cut edge that just needs a little bit of sanding. 

The strap is tablet woven, an Oseberg-inspired design in black/brown/green (cotton thread). 

I really like how this one turned out. I wish it opened more at the top; but it’s a great size and will definitely hold all my stuff.  

I think I’m going to use the rest of that klappenrock fabric for a small hood. Back soon! 

SCA: New Viking Stuff! (ATR Article)

 In 2016, a burial site in Bryndum, Denmark began excavation and study, which among other things contained the grave (G12) of a woman with several layers of textiles buried with her.  The December 2025 issue of the Archeological Textile Review journal contains an article ("The Bryndum Burial Ground in Denmark: News on Viking Age Women's Clothing") which details these textiles.  

The outfit the woman was wearing is unique in several ways.  Firstly, she was covered by a "duvet" of dark gray (undyed) wool stuffed with straw and possibly down - which is not unique, but beneath this layer, she was dressed in: 

• a pleated, undyed linen serk (pleated serks are so cool and I've always wanted to make one) 
• a smokkr/apron dress made of wool which was dyed a deep, dark blue with tablet woven straps! 
• a dark gray jacket- or coat-like garment made of wool and lined with linen, which shows cutting and seaming which indicates that the garment may have been cut and tailored to the body

All of that is super cool, but the thing that blew my mind was the tablet woven straps on the smokkr. Most of the smokkr fragments we've found have been in the form of loops and little sections of the top of the garment which were preserved by the metal in the brooches the loops were attached to.  But THIS dress not only HAS straps - the straps are TABLET WOVEN BANDS.  This is the first instance that's been discovered of tablet weaving being used in this way in the Viking age, according to the journal article.  

Tablet woven straps! Stripes! Pleated serk!  I'm so excited about this - and I think now I need to make a new outfit for myself after this grave find.  I want to know more about how this coat/jacket thing was constructed, too.  

Anyway, I just thought this was cool and wanted to share it with you.  

For the time being, I'm hard at work on my current A&S project, and I need to finish that before I get into a new outfit based on this find.  More news on that as I progress (I know, I know, I haven't talked about it at all yet, but it's coming!) 

 

SCA: 2025 Recap Post

 Here's a quick look back at all the large projects I've made for the SCA in 2025 (not counting small stuff like bags, miscellaneous weaving, things like that):  

FEBRUARY: 

1.  A red linen Viking outfit for the A&S Competition at Bryn Gwlad's Candlemas event (I won), which I also took to show off at Laurel's Prize Tourney (it's not a tourney/competition and there is no prize, long story): 

the A&S display

2.  A blue linen tunic for my male Viking kit, with tablet woven trim: 

MARCH 

While I spent most of the spring working on my project for Kingdom A&S, I did manage to complete part of it, which I entered at Bjornsborg's A&S competition in March: 

JUNE

Still working on the project for Kingdom A&S!  With the leftover fabric from that project, I made a rectangular cloak to wear with my male kit: 

JULY

1.  The Kingdom A&S project is finally finished!  

2. I also whipped up a quick Viking outfit in Sprezzatura household colors, which has become one of my favorite things to wear (even though the sleeves are way too long, oops): 

 

3.  I also made myself a Skjoldehamn hood out of some green wool that was leftover from the Kingdom A&S project. It's not finished - it's sewn together, but not decorated or anything like that. Not yet, anyway.  

NOVEMBER

Last month I made a klappenrock coat for my friend Ivar, out of some wool that someone gave to him: 

And that's it for this year!  I did lots of other small things - bags, bits of weaving, little hats, that kind of thing.  But these are all the major SCA-related pieces I made during the year. I feel like this is somehow...not enough? Is that a thing?  I don't know.  

I can't wait to see what 2026 holds! I'm already started on a couple of A&S pieces for the spring - show you soon as I have some measurable progress to report.  

SCA: A Klappenrock for Ivar Hersir

My good friend Ivar was given a piece of gorgeous wool several years ago that he’d always wanted to have made into a coat, so I volunteered my services. He and I sat down at the last event and took some measurements and discussed styles, and he basically gave me free rein to “do what I do,” hehe. 

It’s lovely fabric, a medium-weight wool of about 4y.  It looks dark gray from a distance, but up close it’s made up of black, light gray, and dark blue threads in a herringbone twill striped pattern, with a thin stripe of brown every few inches. 

I made it into a klappenrock - the tunic-length coat with an angled front that wraps over in the front, for male Vikings. I don't know a whole lot about the archeology behind this style; it’s described by Inga Hagg from her studies on the finds at Hedeby (10-11th century).  I've seen the klappenrock in the SCA, although not often, and usually made out of linen. 

The pattern I drew up was pretty simple - it basically looks like the drawing above. Nothing fancy, no gores or gussets, just angled front and back pieces. I didn't have an Ivar available for fittings, as he lives two hours away from me, but I had him bring me the fabric as well as a tunic of his that he liked and which fit him well, and used that as a jumping-off point for sizing and shaping the coat.  I did take measurements of him as well, when he delivered the fabric to me at the Bjornsborg fall event a couple of weeks ago.  

Sewing this coat was also very simple.  I did the seams on the machine to save myself some time, and then hand-finished all the seam allowances for a period look.  I couched a length of brown wool yarn along the seam allowances edges with a herringbone stitch to help protect them from fraying: 

I used a herringbone stitch in black thread for all the seam allowances and for all the hemming on the open edges. 

Very often you see these coats with a contrast guarding around the edges, and I didn't do that (I had no extra fabric with which to make one), but I did finish the front edges and sleeve cuffs with a band of tablet-woven trim which I made.  

The pattern for the woven trim is  Ladoga 2b, which is a Rus design from Staraya Ladoga barrow in Russia; in blue and white with a red and black border.  I made about 3.3 yards to go around the neckline and front opening, and another yard or so for the sleeve cuffs. 

And that's it.  This was a great "quick" project (the coat itself took about five hours to make, and the woven trim took me about a week or so weaving in my spare time).   His excellency absolutely loves it.  Success! 

*

It's going to be a while before I post again.  We just finished up Bordermarch's event War of the Rams, and so events are over until February, for me - but I have a LOT to do over the winter, both for the SCA and with projects around the house. 

I'm working on a new outfit for A&S in the spring, a new hood, and a LOT of tablet weaving - including building two new looms.  I'll try to post about the stuff I'm making as I go along.  

SCA: Just Weaving Some Stuff

I’ve just recently obtained my very own copy of Applesies & Fox Noses, a book of historical Finnish tablet weaving patterns by Maikki Karisto and Mervi Pasanen. I’m super excited about it - it’s been out of print for EVER and they finally released a new printing. Yay! 

So far I’ve only done the first pattern, a band from the Carelian Iron Age from the Kaukola Kekomäki graveyard that the authors are calling “Colorful small Applesies.”  The first time through I did it in red, yellow, and blue like the pattern: 

I had an enormous amount of trouble with the tension on this one for some unknown reason, but it came out pretty well anyway.  

The second version I did was in greens, black, and white:

I LOVE the color scheme on this one.  

I recently re-fitted my ancient black linen smokkr - it was in good shape, but it was too tight across the chest, so I took a strip off the lower hem and used it to make a thin panel that I inserted into one of the seams to widen the whole dress. It fits great now, and now it also has a lovely green band on it: 

I can’t wait to wear this at my next event - which will be Bjornsborg’s fall baronial event on Halloween weekend  that weekend is also my fiftieth birthday, hooray! This will be fun. 

SCA: Kingdom A&S Event

 

Well, I'm back from Kingdom A&S, which is THE big A&S competition event in Ansteorra every year.   

My project for Kingdom A&S (KAS) was one you've seen bits and pieces of here on the blog in the past few months - I've been working on it since January, I started as soon as Candlemas was over.  

I made a complete Norse woman's outfit in three layers: a linen serk, a wool overdress, and a wool smokkr.  All of it is hand-sewn, and I did the tablet weaving and the braiding on the smokkr as well. 

The serk is all linen, sewn with linen thread.  It's a light gray in color, similar to what an unbleached linen would look like, but not as warm in color (more gray, less beige/tan).  The thread is white, because that's what I had on hand.  Nothing fancy here, just a plain "T-tunic" style pattern, some flat-felled seams, no trim or anything like that. The sleeves are a bit longer than they need to be - I did that so I could bunch them up around my wrists.  So they hang down pretty far in the picture above.  The stitching on the serk isn't as nice as on the other two pieces, and I got dinged for that by the judges, but it's not a humongous deal or anything.  

armpit gussets.  I hate them so much. 

The green wool dress (previewed here) that goes over the serk is done on the same basic T-tunic pattern (similar to tunics/dresses found at Birka and Hedeby).  It's sewn in a beige colored silk thread which blends into the green fabric pretty well.  The trim around the neckline and sleeve cuffs is blue silk fabric, hand-stitched in place on top of the edge.  

the green wool dress, with blue silk trim and
a blue tablet woven belt

armpit gussets in the green dress

blue silk trim on green dress

The blue wool smokkr is one that I showed at Bjornsborg this past Spring, when the project was about half-finished.  It's a full-length dress, with fabric straps/loops, tablet-woven trim, and a "Hedeby braid" trim on the vertical seams, very similar to the red linen dress I made in 2024.  

The fabric is a broken diamond twill wool in a medium blue color; the pattern is the same three-panel/three-gore pattern I always use for these things, which is based off of Carolyn Priest-Dorman's pattern which is widely used in the SCA LINK.    

The trimming across the top edge of the dress is in two parts: a green silk fabric band folded over the top edge, and below it a tablet woven band in silk, in green, blue, and white. This decision was inspired by finds at Birka as noted by Inga Hagg.  The pattern for the band is Oseberg 12L1 (the Oseberg "narrow band" found on the loom in the Oseberg ship burial), which I got from Elewys von Finchingfield's blog and YouTube channel LINK.  

blue smokkr

setting in the side gores

tablet weaving and Hedeby braid on the smokkr

eleven examples of top trim on apron dresses, 
illustration by Inga Hagg

weaving the Hedeby braid

the Hedeby braid on an extant fragment found
at Birka (illustration by Inga Hagg)

Overall, the day was frustrating as heck (because of all the stress of just waiting and waiting and waiting), but it ended well.  I'm very happy with the scores I got, and the judges' commentary.  I was in the top 10 high scorers, and so I got a commemorative coin/badge as a prize, which was pretty cool.  I only spoke to one of my judges, but she was very cool and had a lot of good things to say, and good ideas for going forward with this project IF I decide to take it to Gulf Wars to compete there - IF I get chosen to go, which I probably won't.  

A few friends and I traveled to KAS together (five hour drive!) and stayed in an Air BNB together for the weekend, which was fun.  We had a great time together, and KAS was a good experience, and I'm happy with the weekend overall.  

Good lord, what's next?  I have no idea.  I think I need to spend some time recovering from the emotional strain, LOL.  No, I totally have things planned.  More soon!  

my prize coin from the competition

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