06 December 2020

WE INTERRUPT THIS PROGRAM...

 So, this is my sewing machine: 


Don't get me wrong, I love it.  It's 26 years old (1994), and it's been a workhorse, and it's my baby.  It's made everything you see on this blog, and much, much more.  It's yellowed with age and a lot of the markings have rubbed off over the years.  But it still sews - even does buttonholes and all twelve fancy stitches.  

The problem is it's also developing age-related issues.  It's slow.  The dials and switches are hard to operate.  The thread catches all the time.  I've had it serviced, and I take great care of it, it's just showing its age.  






I also have a "new" machine, as of about six years ago - a Singer Curvy - that has been nothing but a problem since I got it. It ran well for a year before it needed a new pedal.  Then the needle shank fell out of alignment.  I had it fixed.  Then something else broke.  I had it fixed.  Then the needle shank went off again.  I had it fixed.  It did it again - and this time I wasn't willing to just keep sinking money into this thing.  I had already spent more than the machine was worth in repairs, and I just wasn't going to do it anymore.  

Enter my friends Chris and Franchesca.  Chris texted me yesterday morning and said, "Hey, did you ever get that sewing machine issue sorted out?"  A conversation about my two machines ensued.  Long story short, the pair of them showed up at my house last night with this: 




That's a Husqvarna Viking Tribute 140C - Franchesca's old machine.  She got a new one recently and decided she needed to loan this one to me so I could work on something nice.  Holy crap! I think I said "thank you" about a thousand times.  (If you're reading this, Franchesca, THANK YOU!!!)  

I took it for a short drive this morning - I ran a little sampler just to familiarize myself with basic operations, changed the thread and the bobbin, and then repaired a mask that needed longer elastic.  I can't WAIT to get going on big projects with this thing!  It runs so smoothly and quietly, and practically does everything for you.  I'm about to download the manual so I can learn how to do all nine million stitches that this thing does (especially buttonholes, I'm going to need to make a lot of buttonholes in the near future).  

So anyway, I just wanted to show off my new toy.  I can't wait to really get into it!  





28 November 2020

A Bathrobe

A friend gave me an online gift certificate to Joann's.  Since I could only use it on fabric (patterns, notions, and things like that are only available for store pickup), I decided to treat myself to something I'd been putting off:  a new bathrobe.  I hadn't had a new one in years, and I had longed for a new one that matched my bedroom, hehe (yes, I'm just that kind of dork).  I bought some hunter green double knit cotton, and did this.  

I know, I know, it's just a bathrobe.  But it was needed, and I had fun whipping this fast little project together.  It's warm, flowy, comfortable, and washable.  

I used the Japanese kosode pattern that I used for my silk robe in 2014.  It's easy, comfy, and sews up in less than two hours.  

So, thanks, Friend!  This was a great birthday present.  :)  





22 November 2020

...And Now For Something Completely Different

So, here's something a bit out of the ordinary:  I made myself a Regency-era (Empire) gown.  I had six yards of sage green crushed Dupioni silk on hand that I had had for years, and  I was saving it for "something special", but that something never came around - what was I saving it for then?  I decided to have fun with it. 

And so I give you:




At first I thought I'd get a Simplicity pattern and just start sewing; but I had too many questions about the fashions themselves - first and foremost, was that Simplicity pattern even accurate?  A LOT of reading and study happened next.  Long story short, I finally ended up ordering the Morning Dress pattern from Reconstructing History, and got to work. 



I adore these buttons!



The pattern went together pretty easily once I figured out some snags I had along the way.   But once I got it sorted the dress came together just like it was supposed to.  I made three mock-ups of the bodice, and two finished bodices,  to get the fit right.  

I also made a Regency-style chemise, and a pair of stays to wear beneath the dress.  The fashion in the early-mid Regency period was to let it all hang out - no corset, no stays, nothing.  Of course, larger women (me) and larger-busted women (me again) did opt to wear stays to keep everything in place.  The chemise is made of handkerchief-weight white cotton;  the stays are made of cotton calico with bias tape binding and hand-stitched lacing eyelets.  







Credit where credit is due: 

A dear friend gave me a big gift card for my birthday this year, which I used to purchase a new cutting table (hooray, no more cutting out on the floor!) and all the notions and supplies I needed for this dress.  I had the fabric already, but without that birthday present this outfit wouldn't have happened.  Thanks, Friend!  


What's Next? 

Sadly, I don't have anywhere to wear this outfit - I'm not involved with JASNA or any local Regency groups (there aren't any local Regency groups), and Halloween didn't happen this year.  This was purely an exercise in branching out and learning something new.  It'll hang in the closet forever, I suppose.  Even if it does, I plan to keep learning and keep adding to the ensemble - it needs a Spencer jacket and a hat!  Those are "one of these days" projects, I think. 

For now, though, my next project is going to be a [modern] winter coat for me.  I've always wanted to make one, and I've found the perfect pattern for it.  It'll take me a while to collect all the components I'll need for the coat, though, so I probably won't have the blog post about it for you for a couple of months.  In the meantime, there are always masks to make.   



 




18 October 2020

One Last Serk

 Nothing major to report, I just made one last under-dress for my Viking wardrobe: 



This fabric is a pale grey lightweight linen - if you look closely you can see the outline of the hem of the tshirt I have covering the mannequin.  (If you look even more closely you can see the outline of a kitten playing underneath the dress, heehee).  

Now I have an even number of apron dresses and smocks, so I won't have to re-use any smocks during an event (ew sweaty).  And so the Great Big Viking Project I started in April is finally complete. 


Next time I'll have something completely off the wall for you.  Stay tuned! 

24 September 2020

Quarantine Hobbies

 In the middle of all that Viking-ness that I was doing earlier this year, I also made a loom.  I honestly thought I posted about it on the blog, but I guess I didn't.  Whoops!   





It's a simple design, made from a single piece of 1x4, a 3'x1" dowel, and a handful of 2" screws.  I learned how to make it by watching youtube videos, and had it done in an afternoon.  The stain is Dark Walnut, by Minwax.  If I had it to do over again, I'd re-think my dowel placement:  one of the dowels in the warp is too close to the path that the yarn takes on the non-heddled strings, and it's causing some friction that I think is making my yarn fuzzy in places.  





I'll admit, I'm not very good at weaving yet.  Another youtube video taught me how to warp up the loom and weave on it, but I'm having lots of tension problems I don't know what to do with.  I'll get there.  So far I've woven a couple of scrap pieces just to get a feel for the loom, and a perfectly serviceable teal belt made of thin yarn.  I'm working on a black one at the moment.  

Part of the problem with weaving is that I don't have a real shuttle.  I made one out of an old wooden ruler, because that's what I had.  Someday soon (I hope) I'll order a nice shuttle for myself, and then maybe things will go more smoothly.  


LOL.



22 September 2020

Mr. Madylyne

On the last day of an event, I like to dress as a dude. Packing up and breaking camp in a dress is a pain in the ass, and MAN, I hate stepping on my skirts while I'm trying to do work.  So.  Pants it is.  But not jeans - I still want to be in garb on the last day. 

Also, I really just dig men's Viking clothing.  I had a pretty decent tunic which was very festive but not period, some winingas that didn't stay up, and no pants at all (I was wearing baggy yoga pants).  The whole outfit had to be re-done from the ground up.





And so, from the top down,  this is the new tunic.  It's simple, beige and blue, with no trim, embroidery, or other ornamentation.  It's a plain, geometrically cut t-tunic, like the old one.  I have a pair of metal bracelets I can wear with this, a beaded necklace, and a small, round, silver brooch I can close the neckline with.  


I totally cheated on the pants.  I've tried the Thorsberg trouser pattern before, but I can't seem to make it work for me - the seat always rips out when I wear them.  The billowy Rus pants design calls for more fabric than I had to work with.  What I opted to do instead was to make a pair of "long sleeved braies":  basically, I used my Medieval underwear pattern, which I know fits well, and extended the legs to full length.  Here's sort of what the pattern looks like:




It worked really well.  I now have a pair of pants that is comfy, moves with me, and the waistband stays in place...And which I can't show you, because they look truly horrible and ridiculous on, without a shirt, and the shirt covers up all but the lower legs.  You can kind of see them in the next pic:  







Here's a pair of wool winingas that I ordered from Etsy, and the Vlaardingen shoes I ordered from Bohemond a few months ago.  I tried this with linen winingas that I made, but I just couldn't keep them up - they fell completely off every step I took.  The wool clings to the fabric of my pants much better, and hugs the curves of my legs, so they stay in place just fine.  (It's hard to get them on evenly, though - you can see how loose some of the wraps are. I'll get better).   I got the raven hooks from the same Etsy shop, and I lurrrve them.


So that's me as a guy!  I swear I didn't match the tunic trim to the pants on purpose, I was just working with the leftover fabric that I had.  Those winingas take forever to put on - I imagine I'll get better at it the more I use them.  I don't have any of the usual accoutrements that I see on guys - knives, drinking horns, little leather pouches, nice leather belt.  The belt I have right now is one I wove on my inkle loom out of thin, black yarn.  Eventually I'll come up with a nice kit;  for now I'm just rocking the clothes.  

And here, because I got a new kitten, is your Cat Tax for the day.  Everyone, meet Darcy: 





26 May 2020

A New Coat

I like my existing Viking coat just fine.  I last worked on it in November, and I was really happy with the result.  It's super heavy - heavy cotton lined with linen, with faux fur trim all around the edges - and very warm.  At BAM in November it got into the low 30s, and this coat was fantastic then.  (30º is Basically Arctic for us Ansteorrans).

However, I wanted something a little bit lighter, for cooler but not freezing nights.  Something without all the fur, something with a bit more swish to it.  I'll be honest with you, the idea started when I saw a coat on Pinterest that I absolutely loved, and resolved to make a copy of for myself.

So of course I made a new coat which is nothing at all like the Pinterest coat, because I couldn't find fabric in the right color.  I did, however, find a lovely shade of green linen at Fabric-Store.com called "Agave" that derailed everything I'd been planning, because I fell head over heels in love with it, and I ended up designing a completely different coat than the one I'd had planned.  You know how that goes.






The new coat is a basic T-tunic shape, with a dropped shoulder seam and angled front and back pieces (no gores).  It's fully lined, and the lining contains two inside pockets, because bitchez need pockets.    The body color is "Agave", and the edge banding and lining are "Graphite", also from FS. I made the blue trim between the body of the coat and the edge out of the remnants of my new blue dress.







I love my new coat!  I can't wait to wear it! Of course, in our weather, I may not get to wear it until late December.  We'll see.  It all depends on when the SCA decides to have events again, really. That might not be until November, from what I'm hearing.

But wait...

Did you notice something else in the pictures?  That's right - I got a new dress dummy!  I'm so excited about it.  My last one, Violet, finally died when I moved two years ago.  I've missed her ever since, and wanted a new one, so I finally treated myself to a replacement.   This one is kind an intense teal, and so in the pics above I have a white tshirt covering her so the color doesn't distract.   Everyone, say hello to Iris:


19 May 2020

A Blue Viking Apron Dress

My first Viking dress was dark blue, and I loved it so much - but it got old and worn and too small, and I ended up chopping it up to make dinner napkins (which I still use).  I've wanted another dark blue apron dress ever since - and now I have one!




This is just a plain, 3-panel apron dress, in a middle weight linen.  The color is "Prestige", by Fabric-Store.com - it's sort of a dark steel blue, not intense enough to be "navy", but not warm enough to be called "midnight."  I really love the color.   It's soft and restful, like a quiet evening.   




I found a gorgeous tablet-woven wool band on Etsy (here) while I was looking for trim for another project, and I HAD to have it for this dress.  I've used it around the top of the dress and also for the straps.  I didn't treat this trim in any way, because I haven't had a reaction to it at all (yay!) I guess the weaver did something to it before she used it, or maybe they just treat wool differently in Lithuania, who knows?

Here's the back:


The stitching could be a little better right here;  and the thread is just a hair too light for the fabric and the trim, but that's okay.  It's all I could find.  Anyway, I LOVE the trim on this dress!  I wish I could use trim like this on all my projects.  Maybe I should learn to weave.





11 May 2020

Yet Another Jewelry Re-Do

I know, I know, I just re-did my Viking necklaces two weeks ago.  I had a "new" string of cobalt blue 8mm glass rounds that I bought like four months ago that I wanted to work in.  I wasn't totally happy with it, though.  The blue - and the reds - were too intense, and washed out all the pale fluorite and other assorted rocks that were in the mix:





  

However, I just recently purchased a package of assorted lampwork beads in blue shades, some amber colored glass rounds, and a few gold-colored bar ends to use as distributors on the ends of the necklaces, instead of the brass rings I had there before.  I had enough beads to completely remake the necklaces from top to bottom.

I also treated myself to a Bead Buddy, which I've always wanted:





I don't know what I ever did without this thing.  It was SO easy to lay everything out, move things around, and compose the necklace and see it before it was put together. No more making jewelry on my ironing board or on a piece of cloth on the dining room table where beads could roll around and get lost!






This is the new necklace set.  I like this arrangement much better than before - it feels more purposeful to me, like a curated collection instead of a bunch of random leftover beads (which is exactly what it was before).    I kept the gold colored spacers and one or two of the red beads.  I really like the little "pewter" bar ends instead of the bronze rings, it looks much nicer, more professional, I think.

This time, instead of using clear fishing line to string the necklaces (it shows at the ends and looks really plasticky), I used cotton embroidery floss.  This was my first time using floss to string a necklace, and my first time using beading needles.







I still plan to create some of my own beads when I go back to our lampworking class, as soon as it starts up again (I have some pretty blue glass rods to work with that I'm just itching to get into), and one day I'd really like to have some genuine amber beads.  I'll get there.  For now, I really like how this necklace turned out - this is my favorite iteration yet.  





07 May 2020

Let There Be Wool!



This is a picture of me draped in a medium weight tabby wool.

I am allergic to wool.

OR AM I??

I’ve had a few people tell me over the years that I’m not allergic to wool, but rather to the chemicals used in the commercial processing of wool fabric.  To which my reaction has always been a polite “I’ll have to look into that, thanks for the tip” which really meant, “heck off, don’t gatekeep my allergies."

However, I came across a website a while back that went into the idea a bit more, and suggested a washing method that supposedly worked for the author. It sounded simple, so I wrote it down, thinking I’d try it one day if some random wool ever happened to me.  What's the worst that could happen, right?  It wouldn't work and I'd end up with an itchy rash for a day.

Finally, one day, some wool did happen to me.  The piece I’m wearing in the pic was given to me by a good friend, who had been about to donate it to the local craft resale shop because it had some moth holes in it.  I figured this would be a good piece to try out this washing method.

It’s very simple:

  1. Soak the fabric in a sink full of cold water with vinegar (I used 3 cups) for thirty minutes 
  2. Press the excess liquid out of the wool gently 
  3. Wash in the washing machine (yes!) on delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag
  4. Hang dry 
That’s it.  And you know what?   IT WORKED.  I tested the fabric on my arms and hands before I tried this method, and of course, I reacted to it the way I normally do (rash, itching). After the wash I tested it again several times on my arms and hands, and then wore the fabric around like a scarf all evening with the fabric against my face, neck, and arms - I never had a single problem with the washed fabric, and still haven’t. 

It works!  I’m saved!  Now this is just one piece of fabric - it may or may not work on all wool pieces. But I’m encouraged, and I feel like a whole new world of costuming just opened up before me.  I can’t wait to try it again to see if I can repeat my results.  


Unfortunately, when I tried to dye the fabric, it came out like this.  Gorgeous shade of blue, but patchy and splotchy.  Here it is after re-dyeing with a darker color to cover up the mistake:



(dark photo is dark)


Before I dyed the shawl and hemmed it, I cut off about 14" from one edge, where all the moth holes were.  That was still a pretty large piece of fabric, and I decided to get a hood and a small bag out of it:


Here's the Dublin hood I made out of part of what was left.  It came out a Weird Green, I know - but the dye job is smooth and nice.  (It looks weird in the pic, I know - that's just the light from the window).  In this picture it still needs ties.  I'm on the fence about whether to weave some or just buy some twill tape.



Here's the second thing I got out of the remainder of the fabric:  Yet Another Hedeby Bag.  This actually replaces the green linen bag from this post, which was too flimsy and too small.  This bag is 1" around larger in every direction, and is much sturdier.  This time, I sewed in a box bottom.

Both the hood and the bag, and the edging on the shawl, are sewed entirely by hand, because I was bored and needed something to do. Quarantine makes people do weird stuff, you guys.

So, yay wool!  I'm so excited about this.  Like I said, I want to try again to see if this will work on different fabrics, but at the moment, I'm psyched about the fact that I got three articles of clothing out of one piece that I can wear and not worry about having a reaction to.  Three! I will, of course, update here when I test out this washing method again. 

04 May 2020

New Pretties

While I was incredibly responsible with most of my gumbint stimulus check, I did buy myself a present or two.  They came in this week:





First, my new shoes:  the Valaardingen Viking shoe from Bohemond, in brown leather.  They're based off 9th-10th century examples from Holland and Poland, worn by both men and women.  They're SUPER comfy, and the leather is so soft.

I'm wearing them around the house for the next few days to break them in and get used to wearing them - I put gel insoles in them so I wouldn't be walking flat on the ground, which hurts no matter what shoe I wear.  They look GREAT with my quarantine uniform of boxers and a ripped up tshirt. My roommate laughed at me.






While I love my new shoes, I'm absolutely head over heels about these new brooches.  They're from Raymond's Quiet Press - the "Vendel circle" brooches, based on a very early Viking piece. They're 3"x2", and aren't nearly as heavy as they look, thank goodness.

There was nothing wrong with my round brooches, and I still love them.  I'll probably use them to close my coat and/or cloak from now on.  It's just that I've had my eye on this pair of brooches for a couple of years now, and I was finally ready to bite the bullet and order a pair.  I adore these things.  I can't wait to wear them.

24 April 2020

Procrastination (Viking Jewelry)

About three months ago - four? - I purchased a small string of round, cobalt blue glass beads at a craft store.  It took me a while to get to it, but I finally worked them into my Viking necklace.  I even had enough beads this time to make a third string to add on:





In case you're curious, here's what they looked like before, as of last November:





I'm really wishing I had an SCA event to go to, you guys.  It's been way too long - since Candlemas.  I missed a couple of events after that, and then everything was shut down and events got canceled - even Gulf Wars, and now I hear Pennsic has been canceled, too.  I miss my friends, and I miss dressing up and going camping.   I know we all do.  Hang in there, buddies, this will be over before you know it.

At least now I have a "new" necklace to show off when I get back in the game.  And I'll have new shoes, too!  I ordered a pair of Viking shoes from Bohemond this week, and I can't wait to see them in person.  (Don't you just love ordering things online?  It's like getting presents in the mail).

See you all soon!

01 February 2020

Thanks, It Has Pockets!

Whew!  It's been a minute since I was here.  After BAM I took a much-needed rest, and then everything sort of stopped for the holidays, for everybody, I think. 

After making my blue linen apron dress and smock, I had a tiny bit of fabric left over - just enough to make a bag of some kind.  I also had a few things laying around I could use for a lining, so I threw this together:


The front and back are decorated with a bit of the silk from the sari quilt project, and at this point it was lined with the same blue and green sarong that lines the green Hedeby Birka bag I made in early November.

Should a bag like this have the decorative appliqué on the front?  There's no telling. We know that the Vikings did use appliqué, and we know they used strips of imported silk cloth in their clothing and household goods.  But no actual bag like this has ever been found - only the handles - so we don't know for sure if they decorated them or how.  I'm using my best judgment based on what I know, and I'm making it pretty because I like pretty.

But hang on, I thought.  This bag could be better:  what if this bag had pockets on the inside?  That would keep things from banging against my phone in there!  The sarong fabric was way too flimsy to support any sort of real weight in a pocket, so I took it out and replaced it with a linen lining - it started out white, I dyed it brown (with RIT):

Thanks, it has pockets!!


At BAM, during a lull in the activity one afternoon, I whip-stitched the lining to the blue outsides (pinned in the picture), and began making a braid to sew around the edge of the bag.  I hadn't been able to find any crochet thread in the right colors, so I grabbed some yarn in a teal and a green and proceeded to make a mess:





I hated this.  A teal and a green might've blended well with the muted blue of the bag, but not THIS teal and THIS green - this was just horrible.  And the yarn was way too thick for this application anyway.

Instead I wove a whipcord out of a thin, dark blue yarn I had in my stash and tacked it around the edges, and it was much better:







Now it was time to make the handles, and I was dreading it.  My jigsaw is just too big, too heavy, and too clunky to be safe working with little wood pieces like this - and I have such a hard time controlling that thing.  The previous two sets of bag handles were really hard for me.  This time, though, a friend let me use her scroll saw, and THAT was such an easy, precise process!  I loved working with it, and now plan to get one of my own someday.




For the attachment slots for each handle, I used a similar process as I used on the first bag:   I drilled a series of holes where each slot should be and then very carefully chipped the wood away  with a chisel.   Not as carefully as I should have done:  I split the wood on one of the handles and had to glue it back together.  Oops.




These handles are made of walnut wood (the wood started out as 3/8" x 3" x 25" thinstock;  finished handles are 9 1/4" x 1 5/16"). The handles found at Haithabu (Hedeby) were made from ash and maple.  They used what they had on hand - for me, that meant what was local and on sale, and that was walnut. After sanding these handles smooth, the only finishing they got was a coat of wood conditioner, and a very thin coating of polyurethane rubbed onto the wood with a soft rag, to protect the wood and preserve its color.






So there's my third Hedeby bag:  blue linen lined with brown linen, a scrap of sari silk as decoration, and walnut handles.   With POCKETS.  After my next event, I'll evaluate how the new bag holds up as compared to my other two.